We do things seriously without taking ourselves too seriously,” Laurent Dordet often says when describing the philosophy of Hermès Horloger. It is not quite a mantra but it has served Hermès and Dordet well. Since taking the helm as CEO in March 2015, Dordet – an Hermès veteran who joined the group’s finance department, of all things, in 1995 – has overseen a decade of transformation that has delivered impressive growth. Under his leadership, the house has successfully navigated the fragmented watch landscape by leaning into its unique identity: whimsical, creative, and strictly independent.

This commitment to independence was reaffirmed in July 2025, when the maison announced a major expansion of its Le Noirmont manufacture. The project, scheduled for completion by 2028, will see the site grow to 11,000 square meters, consolidating the production of cases and dials under one roof. This strategic move not only secures Hermès’ vertical integration but also strengthens its sustainable roots in the Swiss Jura, with the new facility featuring solar panels, green roofs, and an architectural design inspired by equestrian arenas (because of course).

Yet, even as the industrial footprint grows, the spirit remains light. In this exclusive interview, Dordet reflects on navigating “tricky times” and the return of the brand’s beloved Le Temps Suspendu (“Time Suspended”) complication. From the gender-fluid success of the new Hermès Cut to the technical evolution of the H08 in titanium, Dordet explains why, in an industry obsessed with precision, Hermès’ true genius lies in knowing when to keep its own pace of time.

We were excited to see the Hermès Cut when it premiered last year, and now we also hear there are men very interested in it. You also made the decision to include the “Time Suspended” (Le temps suspendu; we will go with the translation for the rest of the text) complication in the Cut collection with an interesting anti-clockwise seconds counter. Why did you choose that collection for this execution?

First of all, what we wanted to reassert for years was “Time Suspended” in general, because it was our founding complication in 2011. It was the first time we had a high complication and the first time we had a message about the way Hermès envisages time, and our relationship with time.

So, we definitely wanted to reintroduce it into our collection (it was just a matter of where and how). We redeveloped it five years ago with a Vaucher (base) movement – because in 2011 it was an ETA movement – so we were ready to relaunch it. But every year we had other opportunities: Arceau L’Heure de la Lune, Le Temps Voyageur, the H08...

When Hermès Cut was introduced in 2024, we said, “Why not take this new collection to reintroduce Time Suspended?” We did it not only in the Arceau in two sizes as before, but in a big size (42mm) for Arceau and a smaller size (39mm) in Cut, because we consider it a transversal complication that embodies Hermès philosophy regarding time.

What about the gender split here in terms of sales? Any changes, overall?

When it comes to gender numbers, I would say our sales are more and more gender fluid. We don’t know exactly to whom we sell; a lot of women buy our men’s watches because they like what we are proposing, including the H08 and Arceau Time Suspended. Conversely, a lot of men are buying the Cut Time Suspended <and this is just in the time between when the complication was reintroduced in April and this interview, in September 2025 – Ed>.

Of course, some collections are specifically feminine or masculine given the size (or design), but it’s not as important as it used to be 10 years ago. We are gaining more masculine watch collectors. The proportion is still majority feminine because most Hermès customers are women, but the proportion of men is growing.

It is rare to have a debut like “Time Suspended” in 2011 that everyone still remembers. It generates a lot of positive feelings for the brand. Where is that positive feeling coming from?

I took this job 10 years ago, and by that time, Time Suspended was already out of the collection. I always found that this idea of suspending time, when you are Hermès, is genius. It is exactly who we are. We like to forget about constraints and live fully in the present moment: forget about your phone, your watch, your time, and focus on your loved ones or time for yourself.

This notion could have been invented by many watchmakers, but Hermès did it (in terms of the technical challenge and even the function itself). Since 2011, we definitely think that our “reason to be” in this industry is to propose watches that are frankly different from the competition. The competition is super strong and super technical. So, the reason for Hermès to be here is to propose something new. We must be extremely credible technically, but always in service of something different. Time Suspended really embodies the lightness and playfulness we want to convey.

Speaking of technical efforts, I just saw the new H08 in titanium. We think titanium and ceramic are going to be a big deal for the value they offer. What do you think? Do they fit with the feeling of luxury given that sports watches are a big category?

We built up our mechanical collection starting around 2011 with collections like Arceau and Slim d'Hermès that were more classic or structured. We definitely wanted a sporty line.

I remember an Hermès advertisement from the 1930s with the slogan: “Elegance and comfort for sport and travel.” Hermès has always been a casual brand, privileging lifestyle, sport, and travel – not too “red carpet” or strict. We needed to develop lines that were more casual, which is why H08 and Cut arrived.

H08 really plays with materials: ceramics, titanium, carbon fibre, fiberglass, and more new materials to come. These are more technical, casual materials, but they are still super elegant and compatible with luxury. We don’t just foster a material; we build a line with a different spirit and choose the right material to adapt to that territory. For H08, there is no steel or gold (just a bit of gold on one), mixed with ceramic and titanium. It really opened up a new clientele for us.

That brings us to the confluence of new clients and the spirit of Hermès. I was talking with Mr. Delhotal in Geneva about humour, specifically the horse motifs related to the Arceau Rocabar de Rire. This kind of humour is rare in watchmaking. Is that niche appeal interesting to you?

Once again, our reason to be is to be different. If you look at our collections, the shapes are tricky – we have very few round shapes.

When it comes to designs coming from the scarves (where the Rocabar de Rire finds its origins), it makes our arts and crafts very serious in terms of technique because we work with the best Swiss and French craftspeople like Anita Porchet and Olivier Vaucher. But we use strange designs, including those from English artist Alice Shirley. I’m super happy when I see a minute repeater with a tourbillon featuring a T-Rex design in leather marquetry (the Arceau Pocket Aaaaargh! Minute Repeater in 2020).

For me, it’s exactly what we are. We present a half-a-million dollar piece to collectors who buy Patek Philippe, and now suddenly they have this complication with these designs. We are probably one of the only brands to dare to do this, and this is why (collectors) love us. Maybe many prefer Patek, but the ones buying from us do so because we dare to bring the Hermès spirit. We are here to create elegant objects, but if we can add a touch of humour to make people laugh, we don’t lose any opportunity to do it.

Regarding the H08, it is a “sports elegance” watch, a trend that we have been talking up since roughly 2016. How do you define success for yourselves without just following trends?

We never know. We don’t make market studies because we don’t create specifically for Europeans or Asians, young or old. When you launch a sport line, you try to bring an identity you believe in.

I remember journalists asking, “Where is the Hermès code?” Sometimes there is no code. We have to create new identities that may one day become iconic. In the case of H08, the most valid explanation I heard regarding its success came from a customer in the US who simply said, “Because it’s a cool watch.” It’s the right balance between an elegant watch and a pretty chill, easy-to-wear watch. It probably made Hermès watches more easy-going.

We note the expansion of your manufacture. Today, many suppliers are under pressure. How do you manage these expansions sustainably?

First, building a factory for 2028 means we are confident in the medium-to-long-term future of Hermès watches. Even though we are facing more challenging times right now, after six years of great expansion, our concern is not to expand capacity drastically, but to gather all our staff in the same place. We grew so much that teams are separated, so we want to offer them a more comfortable place to work.

Secondly, as you mentioned, suppliers are suffering. We might face a situation where we are obliged to integrate know-how that is not currently in-house. Big components (cases, dials, movements) are made in-house, but some operations are not. We must be ready to integrate small operations on a case-by-case basis if we have to. We generally don’t invest in brands, but we do take positions in partners, including Vaucher, to ensure our main collections are backed by a secure manufacturing process.

You’ve been in this job for 10 years and at Hermès for much longer. What keeps you coming back for more?

I don’t know exactly why I joined Hermès, but I know why I stayed. The philosophy, values, and vision have not changed one iota in 30 or 40 years: quality, creativity, fantasy, and respect. I am aligned with those values. They are not marketing values; they are the foundation of the relationships between our people.

We do what we say, and we say what we do. If we say bags are made by hand, you can visit the factory and see it. This authenticity is part of our success. I’ve never been bored because I am surrounded by passionate people contributing to sustainable objects that convey happiness.

After 10 years in watches, I am convinced our business model is a virtuous one <relative to some peers – Ed>. Expanding Hermès in this industry is a good mission because Hermès deserves a better place here. Our model – ethically manufactured in Switzerland, repairable, transmittable – is good for the industry and the customer.