The Overseas by Vacheron Constantin — more specifically, the Perpetual Calendar Ultra-thin—was first released in 2016. Since then, the Maison has been slowly bolstering the line, slowly tinkering with the details. A pink gold case in 2018, a blue lacquered dial in 2019, then a skeletonised white gold iteration in 2021.

Now in 2025, they’re introducing two fresh updates: a golden-toned dial and a burgundy lacquered dial. Hot and cold, warm and sharp.

We’ll start with the fancier-looking one, the one that looks like it’s been licked by the flames of the open sun before returning a balmy mass of time-telling gold. Pink gold makes up the 41.5mm case, triple-blade folding clasp bracelet, and sunburst satin-finished dial. Only a slight touch of blue on the dial’s markers disrupts the tone-on-tone harmony.

This detail intrigues us particularly because it not only feels like a callback to the ‘90s, but also to the Crusades. Due to the extreme value of lapis lazuli back then, only the wealthiest could afford the rare synergy of blue and gold. This could be a subtle nod to the period when the Maltese Cross existed, which, of course, Vacheron Constantin has ties with. But then again, it could just be a visual pairing the Maison thought looked cool, and we’re just thinking too much into things.

If the golden-toned model reminds one of the sun, it’s only fair to liken its burgundy counterpart to the moon. Just as a rising moon bathes the night sky into a dim plum, the burgundy lacquer dial version distils that melancholy into a 41.5mm white gold case. The moon phase disc at 6 o’clock looks particularly dreamy (and fittingly so) set against the sunburst satin-finished dial and velvet-finished flange.

Beneath the surface, the guts of the watch remain identical of its predecessors. The self-winding calibre 1120 QP/1 still drives the perpetual calendar, displaying the date, day of the week, month, and leap year across four registers, all within a movement of just 4.05mm thick. This means that the new additions to the Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-thin collection won’t be getting an upgrade to its thinness, but at 8.1mm, who’s really complaining?