A Racing Legacy Reimagined in Titanium

Decades before Laurent Ferrier debuted its first watch, the stately Galet Classic Tourbillon Double Spiral in 2010, the eponymous brand founder had been living a kind of charming double life: as a motor racing enthusiast. The same year he graduated from the École d’Horlogerie de Genève, he went all in full-time selling automotive parts, and even competed in the 24 Hours of Le Mans seven times – in 1979 he was on the team of three, together with racing drivers François Servanin and François Trisconi, that took part in the 24 Hours of Le Mans race of 1979 and ended up in third place, in a Porsche 935/77A, just behind the team that comprised Paul Newman himself. Ferrier offered a Nautilus to Servanin to commemorate the feat, and the latter set in motion the idea of the two founding a watch brand together to create timepieces to wear during racing.

Skip ahead to the 2020s and the culmination of that endeavour can be found in the form of the 41.5mm Sport Auto. The collection was named in tribute to the origins of the marque Laurent Ferrier, and designed with motor racing and automobiles as inspiration for its evocative silhouette, sleek exterior, and rounded aerodynamic curves from all perspectives – a subtle reference to Laurent Ferrier’s 2019 introduction of the Grand Sport collection of 44mm tourbillon-fitted models. The Sport Auto features a fully integrated three-link bracelet and 12.7mm-thick case, both in grade 5 titanium; a tonneau-shaped middle case; a bezel whose shape brings to mind Laurent Ferrier’s Square collection; and a domed sapphire crystal that continues the curved profile.

A variety of finishing found across the watch creates a palpable sense of dynamism and contrast, and strengthens the connection to the mechanical beauty of automobile design and construction: a circular satin-brushed bezel, mirror-polished flanks, a vertical satin-brushed case middle and bracelet, all the way down to the polished inclined sides of the centre links, that together make for a stunning interplay of light and tones. Laurent Ferrier’s signature ball-shaped crown, integrated into the case middle, not only adds to the complexity of the Sport Auto’s aesthetic, but its generous proportions enhance the ease of winding.

A subtle ombre blue with an opaline finish dominates the dial, set off against a grey minute track and central cross, as well as a small-seconds dial at 6 o’clock with snailed powder-grey markers. Indices and “Assegai” spearhead-shaped hands in white gold and filled with green Super-LumiNova, and a bevelled date window at 3 o’clock make up the rest of the features conceived for maximum legibility and contrast.

No car is complete without its engine, and the same can be said about the movement of a watch. For the Sport Auto, it is Laurent Ferrier’s second automatic calendar movement, the Calibre LF270.01, that keeps time, backed by 72 hours of power reserve. Entirely designed, decorated, assembled and adjusted in-house, this self-winding movement features a Swiss lever escapement, unidirectional ball bearing instead of the traditional ratchet system to improve resistance to shocks and vibrations, and an off-centre micro-rotor with a platinum oscillating weight. Nearly 140 manual finishing operations can be admired by way of the see-through caseback: horizontal satin finishing on the darker ruthenium-treated bridges, which help the platinum oscillating weight stand out in the most modern way; anglage polishing using gentian wood or diamantine powder; zinc-polished surfaces; satin finishing; and circular graining all heighten the sense of drama in this timepiece conceptualised to embody the energy of motor racing.

Grand Seiko Unveils Dawn-Inspired “Ice Forest”

It was only half a year ago that Grand Seiko unveiled the Spring Drive Calibre 9RB2 at Watches and Wonders Geneva, in the form of the Evolution 9 SLGB001 (in platinum) and SLGB003 (in titanium), both with dials that evoke the frost-covered forests in the Kirigamine Highlands of the Shinshu region of central Japan, east of Grand Seiko’s Shinshu Watch Studio where all Grand Seiko Spring Drive watches are crafted.

Now the brand has released a follow-up, the Evolution 9 Spring Drive UFA SLGB005, in a new dial of dark purple as well as in Ever-Brilliant Steel, a stainless-steel alloy exclusive to Grand Seiko with exceptional corrosion resistance and shine.

A limited production of 1,300, available starting this November, the SLGB005 also features the “Ice Forest” motif, characterised by the textured herringbone-like pattern, but it stands apart from its predecessors by referencing a fleeting moment not in full daylight but as the dark of night subsides. Deep purple gently lightens up going inward toward the cannon pinion. The theme of frost continues on the movement’s finish, visible through the sapphire- crystal caseback.

Moving onto the case and bracelet, Ever-Brilliant Steel is brighter than standard stainless steel and boasts a Pitting Resistance It was only half a year ago that Grand Seiko unveiled the Spring Drive Calibre 9RB2 at Watches and Wonders Geneva, in the form of the Evolution 9 SLGB001 (in platinum) and SLGB003 (in titanium),both with dials that evoke the frost-covered forests in the Kirigamine Highlands of the Shinshu region of central Japan, east of Grand Seiko’s Shinshu Watch Studio where all Grand Seiko Spring Drive watches are crafted.

Moving onto the case and bracelet, Ever-Brilliant Steel is brighter than standard stainless steel and boasts a Pitting Resistance Equivalent Number (PREN) rating 1.7 times higher than that of stainless steel. These qualities complement Grand Seiko’s signature Zaratsu polishing, which creates a mesmerising mirror finish that, together with brushed-finish surfaces, results in a harmonious glow.

As part of the Evolution 9 collection, the SLGB005 features the Evolution 9 style of hands and prominent grooved indices. The 37mm case is designed with a low centre of gravity and comes fitted with a robust bracelet of substantial width and thickness, for a balanced and secure fit, though curiously the SLGB005 foregoes the new and quickly well received Grand Seiko microadjustment clasp.

As for the movement, it is the new Spring Drive Calibre 9RB2 behind both the SLGB001 and the SLGB003 – the most accurate wristwatch movement powered by a mainspring, according to Grand Seiko.

The movement bears the UFA designation, for Ultra Fine Accuracy, which claims a stated accuracy of plus or minus 20 seconds a year, an achievement that results from new manufacturing and processing methods for the quartz oscillator and newly designed integrated circuit system. And if timekeeping ever grows less accurate, the movement even contains a regulation switch that can correct divergences in accuracy over long periods.

Panerai’s Luminor Marina Militare PAM05218 References the Brand’s Illustrious Past

In conjunction with the opening of the exhibition “The Depths of Time”, held at Panerai’s flagship store in the brand’s birthplace of Florence, the brand unveils the Luminor Marina Militare PAM05218, a faithful reinterpretation of and a tribute to the Luminor Ref. 5218-202/A, which was produced exclusively for Italian Navy personnel and introduced in 1993.

This subdued release is packed with details that recall its highly sought-after predecessor and the latter’s naval connections: the 44mm steel case is coated in wear- and corrosion-resistant DLC to replicate the PVD treatment of the Ref. 5218-202/A; the inscription “Marina Militare”, what Italy calls its navy, appears on the dial; the font for numerals and letters are redesigned to resemble the original typography of the 1993 reference; and even the mismatched colour tones between the numerals and markers and the hands, an accidental feature of some of the early batches of the 1993 reference that actually made those watches highly collectible, is recreated here with SuperLuminova in two slightly different shades.

Unlike the sandwich dial construction found on so many Panerai timepieces, here it is a monolayer with numerals and markers hollowed out and filled with SuperLuminova. Beating within the case is the manual-winding P.6000 calibre, which provides three days of power reserve. A screw-down caseback protects the PAM05218 to a depth of 300m, as expected of a watch with so much naval history. A vintage-looking golden-brown calf-leather strap completes the historical references.

A fitting occasion for the launch of the PAM05218, “The Depths of Time” exhibition, which ran for two months from September 10, delved into Panerai’s history with the military, spanning from the 1910s to 1993, during which Panerai watches were exclusive to military personnel. Through archival materials, technical drawings, early catalogues, original photographs, historical patents, and other materials, the exhibition traces how Panerai’s distinctive aesthetic code evolved out of practical and functional innovations developed for naval applications, as well as the brand’s history from family-owned business to watchmaking giant.

Come Home to Omega This Paris Olympics

Since the inception of competitive sports, time has been an inalienable aspect of the pinnacle of athletic competition. In the modern context, the Olympic Games embody the collective pinnacle of global sport, and even at the first iteration of the modern Games in 1896, time was a crucial element — its significance to events such as the marathon were as important then as it is now. Omega has a stellar reputation when it comes to producing incredibly accurate timekeeping instruments — the story of the Apollo 13 crew using their Speedmasters to time critical engine burns, ultimately saving their lives, comes to mind. It comes as no surprise then, that Omega has been the Olympic Games’ official timekeeping partner for the better part of the last century.

A timekeeping partnership that spans over nine decades is no mean feat — if anything, it is a testament to Omega’s ability to innovate and evolve through the years. At its first Olympic Games as official timekeeper, in 1932, the Swiss manufacture’s involvement took the form of 30 high-precision stopwatches and as many timekeepers; today, Omega deploys hundreds of employees and tonnes of cutting-edge timing equipment.

The Games are not just a metaphorical home for the manufacture — Omega also has a physical home in Paris for this year’s Games as well. A cozy, intimate space where guests will be able to delve into the heart of the brand, the Omega House Paris is located at The Hôtel de Poulpry, Maison des Polytechniciens. Beginning with a full timeline of Omega’s history at both the Olympic and Paralympic Games, guests are also invited to visit the various rooms dedicated to Omega’s watchmaking universe.

The Timekeeping room showcases the modern Omega technologies that are critical to the Games functioning smoothly today, such as the electronic starting pistol and photo-finish camera, while Stadium is a unique experience that immerses guests in the excitement that comes with being an Olympic champion.

Elsewhere, Speedmaster luxuriously highlights Omega’s well-known history in space exploration, showcasing a variety of floating Speedmaster timepieces, astronaut memorabilia, and a golden astronaut for a photo opportunity. The Seamaster room provides a sophisticated space in which guests can enjoy a drink, whilst also diving into the manufacture’s current staple Seamaster collection. Finally, Her Time exhibits Omega’s watchmaking for women from the past century, headlined by vintage ladies’ pieces, as well as other keepsakes.

Rounding out the experience, The Garden is a green-hued respite from Parisian urbanity — the space’s plush furniture and big screen makes it the perfect secluded space in which one can relax and enjoy the Games.

The Omega House will be open to members only from 28 July to 10 August.

This story was first seen on MensFolio.com

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4 New Omega Watches To Count Down To The Paris Olympics With

We’re down to the last 80 days before the 2024 Olympic Games begin in Paris, and Omega, the official Olympic timekeeper since 1932, has launched its latest special commemorative editions, this time based on the Speedmaster collection’s Chronoscope series, distinguished by its two-counter presentation.

At 43mm, the four vintage-inflected models feature while opaline dials bearing three concentric timing scales—tachymeter (to measure speed), pulsometer (pulse), and telemeter (distance)—in a design that harks back to the aesthetic from the 1940s. In stainless steel with an anodised aluminium bezel, or in Omega’s proprietary fade-resistant yellow-gold alloy, Moonshine Gold, with a ceramic bezel, and paired with either a bracelet in the same material as the case or a black calfskin strap, the models combine gold, black and white, the colours of the logo of the 2024 Olympic and Paralympic games.

The closed caseback features a stamped medallion with a mirror-polished Paris 2024 emblem against a base of frosted metal. (The emblem—combining gold, a stylised Olympic flame, and a woman’s face to stand for Marianne, the personification of the French Republic—is designed as a three-fold tribute to this year’s Games.)

Powering the four Speedmaster Chronoscopes is the Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 9908/9909, certified by the Bern-based Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology (METAS) for superior precision, performance and magnetic resistance.

This duo comes after the Seamaster Diver 300m Paris 2024 special edition launched last July to mark the one-year countdown to the start of the Games and also Omega’s 31st turn as the event’s official timekeeper. The 42mm watch is available only at the brand’s Paris boutiques, making it bona fide souvenir for those attending the Games in person.

The Seamaster Diver 300m Paris 2024 special edition is composed of a stainless steel case and bracelet, together with a Moonshine Gold bezel. Its laser-engraved white ceramic dial bears the wave pattern found on most members of the Seamaster Diver 300m family, while the date display at 6 o’clock employs the custom Art Deco–inspired typeface specially developed for the Paris 2024 games, and the central seconds hand is decorated with the Paris 2024 emblem.

Like the Olympics-themed Speedmaster Chronoscopes, the Seamaster Diver 300m Paris 2024 special edition comes with a closed commemorative caseback and a polished Moonshine Gold medallion in the form of the Paris 2024 logo inlayed on textured laser-ablated steel. Within the case resides the Co-Axial Master Chronometer 8800, also certified by the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology. The Quick Change System lets wearers switch between steel bracelets, rubber straps, and the Paris 2024 NATO straps.

This article was first seen on Grazia.sg

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