Franck Muller's Goes Long with the Long Island Evolution

When you think "boundary-pushing", Franck Muller comes up almost immediately. Known for pioneering technical marvels in horology, the company doesn't just stop at high and grand complication timepieces, its innovation extends on its exterior to include the case and dials craftsmanship, gem-setting techniques, and the avant-garde materials it uses. Remember the iconic Cintrée Curvex first shown in 1987? How did the timepiece's curved case and unique contour come to cement Franck Muller's name? The distinctive silhouette is carried onto the latest evolution of the Long Island Evolution case.

First introduced in 2000, the Long Island isn't just a drink, it is a watch that made a splash with its three-hand design. The model was a tribute to the Art Deco movement and sported a rounded rectangular case, elegant curved form, short lugs, and arched numerals.

In Geneva, Franck Muller unveils a modern reimagining of the Long Island case. These three new Long Island models are homages to the original while introducing radically new expressions.

A standout feature of the new Long Island is the addition of an inner case that secures the "shaped movements that drive the watch". With shaped movements, not only do they maximise the use of space within the case, they also present a visual appeal that’s challenging to engineer. The inner case provides added security and shock protection; the multi-layered construction discreetly attaches the sapphire crystal to the flange, which eliminates visible fixing screws.

In terms of aesthetics, the new Long Island boasts an anodised pine green aluminium inner case that's paired with a black PVD-coated and satin-brushed titanium outer case. The watches are finished off with matte black alligator leather straps with contrast stitching and pine green edges.

Long Island Evolution 7 Days Power Reserve

Rounding off the collection is the Long Island Evolution 7 Days Power Reserve that features a hand-wound FM 1745 calibre in a fully skeletonised design. As a recall to the pocket watch movements, this impressive timepiece, it offers a seven-day power reserve; as a precise oscillator runs at 18,000vph.

The movement’s bridges are fully skeletonised so that you can peer through the sapphire crystal. A small seconds counter at the bottom of the display balances out the enormous mainspring above it. Turn the watch over and you can admire the partially revealed gear train and winding gears; in the dark, Arabic numerals are aglow.

Long Island Evolution Master Jumper

If you have to push the envelope, you go all out. Franck Muller introduces a triple-jumping complication for the Long Island Evolution Master Jumper. While triple jumping displays aren't new, previous ones only do calendar functions in perpetual calendars. For the Evolution Master, there are three numerical indications for the hours, minutes and date functions combined.

There's an inner sapphire crystal at the level of the inner bezel to give that 3D depth to the timepiece. A crystal displays useful text elements that directly incorporate the frames for the three apertures: with the movement to remain open-worked while showcasing technical indications.

Three windows are arranged vertically down the middle of the case. You have got the hours at the top, minutes in the middle, and the date at the bottom. The minute and date windows utilises two separate discs for the tens and ones. Both jump at each decimal increment, while the hour window uses a single disc for hours '1' to '12'. All five discs and their driving wheels are seen through the front, supported by a bridge with machined cutouts.

Powering the numerical displays requires a lot of power. Thus the double-barrel system. The first barrel, located at 12 o'clock, drives the hours and minutes discs. The second barrel, at 6 o'clock, powers the movement and the date discs. A double-barrel system allows sufficient torque for instantaneous jumps, especially at day's end when the date also changes.

As a testament to Franck Muller’s technical prowess, the Calibre FM 3100 was designed specifically for this timepiece. Hand-finished with meticulous techniques, it offers a blend of beauty and technical excellence, resulting from four years of dedicated development.

Long Island Evolution Giga Tourbillon

Franck Muller is always known for its tourbillon designs. From the first multi-axis tourbillon to holding the record for the most complex wristwatch, the brand continues advancing tourbillon design like the Giga Tourbillon movement. This technical marvel features a 20mm cage. Now it graces the Long Island case with an all-black treatment that matches the titanium case.

The oversized tourbillon cage takes up half of the movement. It's supported by a three-pointed bridge mirrored in the barrel bridges holding four mainsprings. These mainsprings provide a generous four-day power reserve that is displayed between the barrels. Super-LumiNova-filled hands indicate the hours and minutes, with the tourbillon doing double duty as a running second counter.

The Long Island Evolution is exclusive to the Asia Pacific region. There are 300 pieces for the 7 Days Power Reserve, 100 for the Master Jumper and only eight pieces for the Giga Tourbillon.

This article was first seen on Esquire.Sg.

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Antony Lindsay, the Newly-Minted Fabergé CEO, on Tradition and Modernity

On a warm afternoon in the middle of nowhere, Antony Lindsay, the newly-appointed CEO of Fabergé sits before us as the ice in a glass next to an unopened can of Coke, tinkles as it melts. As the CEO of a storied brand like Fabergé, Lindsay’s task is to spread the word (and work) of the Romanov’s favourite jewellery house. With Sincere Watch Limited as its official retailer in Singapore, Fabergé continues to make its presence known. And yes, Fabergé is synonymous with the gem-encrusted eggs but the house has other achievements like jewelled boxes; animals carved out of precious stones and other ornamental objects.

In 2007, the brand underwent a revival. Taking inspiration from its storied past, Fabergé created original pieces like the Vissionnaire watches, where a Chronograph model displays two time zones at once, and the Altruist line, which has a clean and simple-to-read dial, with a crown that’s reminiscent of winding up a traditional clock. The collection that secured Fabergé’s footing in the hard jewellery world is the Compliquée models, which won the 2015 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève award.

As water pools at the bottom of the glass, Lindsay talks to us. About his history, where Fabergé is at and the future.

LUXUO: Did Sean Gilbertson (Fabergé’s last CEO) leave you with any wisdom when you took over?

ANTONY LINDSAY: [laughs] There’s been many over the years. I’ve known Sean, coming up to almost 14 years, and we shared some moments, both good and challenging. Nothing springs to mind... except for this Winston Churchill quote, “If you ever find yourself going through hell, keep walking.”

LUXUO: What’s your journey been like?

AL: I come from a family of jewellers and had an interest in gemmology at a young age. I’ve been neurolinguistically programmed to appreciate jewellery, timepieces and objets d’art just by hanging out at my dad’s atelier on the weekends. I’d look at the gemstones handled by the craftspeople. I have an appreciation for hard luxury and completed my apprenticeship as a bench jeweller. I’m proud of having played such an important role within Fabergé for about 14 years. I’ve worn different hats as well. Proud when I was appointed MD and was invited to join the board of Gemfields UK Limited. As well as becoming CEO this year.

I feel privileged and fortunate to be part of a team to write the next chapter of one of the most celebrated names in luxury. I see that as an honour. It’s the revival of the coloured gemstones on one hand and it’s also the revival of Fabergé on the other. It’s what keeps us very busy.

LUXUO: What sets Fabergé apart from the rest of your competition?

AL: I’d say that Fabergé’s reputation for unrivalled craftsmanship and design is globally recognised. I’d say Fabergé’s diverse use of techniques like the guilloché enamel with the use of hard stone or visible setting. In keeping with tradition, we seek to work with the finest ateliers. Because we don’t have our own workshop, we seek out workmasters all around the world. That’s quite unique to us.

LUXUO: Speaking of tradition, how do you maintain that heritage while courting the newer generation?

AL: That’s a good question. It’s important to us that we pay homage and recognise what was done in the past. We draw inspiration from Peter Carl Fabergé, whether that be through his philosophies, values or craftsmanship. To apply it in a modern and contemporary and relevant way; we like to consider ourselves as a forward-thinking brand.

LUXUO: How did your partnership with Sincere come about?

AL: I’d say that we are actively looking to partner with the finest retailers in existence. We don’t profess to understand every market on the planet. So, we believe that by partnering with the best of the best, who understands how to represent a brand like Fabergé; and how to offer first-class customer service... that’s very important to us. Sincere Watch Group is the perfect fit for Fabergé and we’re delighted that they are representing us here in Singapore and soon in other parts of South East Asia.

LUXUO: What would you introduce to someone new to Fabergé?

AL: I would introduce the Compliquée Peacock watch, which is quintessentially Fabergé. We took inspiration from the Imperial Peacock Egg and, in keeping with the Fabergé tradition, we sought out the finest watch movement manufacturer and that led us to Jean-Marc Wiederrecht of Agenhor and now his two sons, Nicolas and Laurent, who run the business on a day-to-day basis. Throughout the discussions with them, we made the Peacock watch that has a special retrograde movement, that functions off four gears, and that allows us to add a feature for the peacock’s tail to unfurl.

LUXUO: Peacocks, playing cards; are there other motifs that will utilise that movement in the future?

AL: There are some plans and they are confidential. [laughs]

LUXUO: You talked about Fabergé as a book that you’re proud to be part of. What is the next chapter?

AL: To continue this revival and personally—and I know I speak on behalf of my co-workers—it’s about ensuring that the Fabergé story can still be told. What Fabergé symbolises is more than simply luxury and decadence. For us, it’s about creating prized possessions that can stand the test of time and be passed down through the generations. That’s important to us and runs through our DNA. You can scour through Christie’s and see that Fabergé is one of the highly sought-after hard luxury names in existence.

This article first appeared on EsquireSG.com

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