Panerai Navy SEALs Submersible Watches Are Built for Extreme Performance

A watch that lives up to its name is worthy of being singled out, which is especially true of the entire range of new Panerai Navy SEALs Submersible watches. Just looking at the four watches immediately brings to mind the image of special forces operators. We grant that this could be said of many Panerai watches, not just the four references in this Navy SEALs Submersible family; that is just the advantage that the Swiss-Italian watchmaker has with its distinctive looks and character.

In the case of the four new watches, this is reflected in the degraded (gradient) black to anthracite dials; beige desert camouflage-inspired Super-Luminova on the hands, markers and subdials; similarly themed Super-Luminova treated zero-position markers on the unidirectional rotating bezels; bullseye-style small seconds counters at 9 o’clock; and “NAVY SEALS” emblazoned on the dials at 6 o’clock. The Navy SEALs emblem – the famous trident – is laser-engraved onto the solid casebacks of all four models.

For ease of reference, the four new watches are the Submersible QuarantaQuattro Navy SEALs PAM01518; Submersible QuarantaQuattro GMT Navy SEALs Carbotech™ PAM01513; Submersible Navy SEALs Titanio PAM01669; and, to cap it off, the Submersible Chrono Navy SEALs Titanio PAM01521.

While PAM01518 may be the simplest model, it bears a certain distinction that may spark the interest of Panerai fans. This would be the notable absence of a date display, despite the movement here being the P.900 automatic calibre. This manufacture movement powers quite a number of Panerai models, all with the date function, as a brief search on the Panerai website shows. Although the brand does not say so, PAM01518 might just be the only no-date Submersible. The 44mm watch is cased in brushed 316L steel and is water-resistance rated to 300 metres. The power reserve rating is three days.

Skipping ahead to the most complicated watch, the PAM01521 is also a twist on something Panerai already does, but in its regatta line. This is a flyback chrono with a very specialized function, allowing the chronograph minute hand to be set back one minute at a time (via the pusher at 4 o’clock). When activated (by the start pusher at 10 o’clock), the chronograph begins counting down to zero minutes via the aforementioned minute hand, also with the same beige Super-Luminova. The countdown function is enabled by the automatic calibre P.9100/R, which has been in service since at least 2013. The 47mm watch is cased in DLC- titanium and is rated water-resistant to 500 metres.

The remaining two watches are the PAM01513, a true GMT watch, and the time-and-date PAM01669. Neither of these watches is new, from the perspective of functions so we will dispense with introductions to dive right into the specifications. PAM01513 distinguishes itself with its 44m Carbotech case, complete with bezel in the same proprietary Panerai-developed material; the watch is water-resistant to 500 metres. Powering the action is the automatic calibre P.900/GMT, with a power reserve of three days.

The unique Carbotech material also marks PAM01669, where it forms the bezel; the rest of the 47mm watch is in brushed titanium. Water-resistance is given as 300 metres and the calibre here is not the expected P.900 but the automatic P.9010, with three days of power.

All four watches are exclusive to Panerai boutiques and are available now. All are listed as regular production except PAM01521, which is a limited edition of just 80 pieces. Despite this, we expect that all editions will be hard to come by as previous Navy SEALs models are very popular.

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Seiko Unveils Revamped King Seiko Classic

Japanese watchmaking powerhouse Seiko recently took us through the novelties of 2024, leaving us fairly flummoxed as to what watch to feature (there are also embargoes to consider). A standout for us is the King Seiko KS1969 limited edition, which is the first new iteration to feature something other than the usual round shape. In itself, a watch that is not round from a major producer already counts as big news, even if the appeal might be limited. To backtrack a little, Seiko makes a lot of watches – certainly enough that it knows how to read and respond to the market. That said, the form of the four KS1969 models (SJE109, SJE111, SJE113 and SJE115 is surprising, though not as eye-popping as the return of the Credor Locomotive, but that is a story for another time.

Returning to King Seiko then, the KS1969 is in what one might call a cushion-shape, or shield-shape; it could even be called tonneau or barrel-shaped. We prefer the shield option, which is what we will use since Seiko does not describe it officially. You will see in the specifications that the diameter is listed at 39.4mm but the real measurement everyone will want is lug-to-lug but that is not given (we estimate it to be in the 45mm range, based on our own casual measurement).

Whatever the case (no pun intended), do note the overwhelming presence of polished surfaces, including the case sides; the bracelet with its 13-link structure goes with alternating brushed and polished surfaces, which you can just about make out here. At 9.9mm thick, the watch can probably manage to fit underneath most sleeves. The water-resistance of 50m signals that this is one of those urban beaters, the kind advertised for the man who needs to seamlessly transition from work to social settings, and perhaps back again.

For dial options, there are three to take note of, and one to seek out if limited editions are your thing. The silver dial option is meant to bring to mind the skyline of Tokyo; the Edo purple is an approximation of a shade of purple popular in the Edo period; and the green dial is of course part of Seiko’s continuing obsession with natural beauty. The fourth dial is in a trendy turquoise shade with a very specific texture that references a dragon. This puts the 700-piece limited edition in the mythic-inspiration category while also making it a late entry into the year of the dragon category (this is Japan-specific but it works with the Chinese zodiac too).

Movement: Automatic calibre 6L35 with date; 45-hour power reserve
Case: 39.4mm in steel; water-resistant to 50m
Strap: Bracelet
Price: SGD 4,542.10

This article first appeared on WOW’s Summer 2024 issue.

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The Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Skeleton is a Masterclass in Craftsmanship

Ji Chang-Wook wearing the Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Skeleton

Rado styles itself the “Master of Materials” so we are surprised every time the brand tells us there is a new execution of a colour in ceramic. It just feels like Rado must have done it before – the automatic answer to every question about ceramic in watchmaking is Rado, even though that is really not always the case. Seriously though, the new Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Skeleton is now available in a new matt shade of “late night blue,” which is so very handsome that it landed the cover of World of Watches Malaysia. Before you can say 'late night what now?' let us explain.

Ceramic has this feature where getting the precise colours any given producer wants – not just in watchmaking – is difficult. Well, it can be easier if one is willing to compromise on material strength or durability and it can also work if one is willing to compromise on the quality of the colour. When a watchmaker such as Rado cannot compromise on either, that is when one has to push boundaries. Luckily, Rado has a shared facility with the materials specialist Comadur, whom we have written about a number of times and will visit in the near future (it is on the wish list). This firm is responsible for all the innovative work the group does on sapphire crystals and ceramics.

Adding to the sophistication here is the skeletonised movement in play, Calibre R808, visible through the sapphire dial. Needless to say, the movement is a significant upgrade from the original 1962 Captain Cook model and has all the cool bits that feature strongly in contemporary calibres. The Calibre R808 includes a NivachronTM hairspring, making it resistant to magnetic fields, and boasts an impressive 80-hour power reserve; no doubt you will be familiar with this as the automatic calibre is hardly new. In this form though, it is possible to really see how the aesthetics of the movement, with its meticulous machine finishing, suits the eye. You can even watch the mainspring wind up and down, which might be thrilling depending on your horological nerd credentials.

Returning to the case to finish, this is not a small watch at 43mm, nor is it thin (14.6mm), but that is to be expected from a dive watch built to have 300m water-resistance. The Captain Cook range is one of the few occasions that Rado goes thick, which is perfect to showcase the range of ceramic. Helping to keep things on the wrist in good shape, at least when we tried the watch on, is the blue rubber strap. Rado says it is "sport and adventure-ready," and it should get the job done in terms of weathering humidity and sweat.

Movement: Automatic Calibre R808; 80-hour power reserve
Case: 43mm in high-tech ceramic; water-resistant to 300m
Strap: Rubber
Price: SGD 6,550

This article first appeared on WOW’s Summer 2024 issue.

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Bell & Ross BR 05 Chrono Grey & Gold Showcases Bimetallic Elegance

Bell & Ross' BR 05 Chrono Grey Steel and Gold

Bell & Ross has a knack for being on the right side of the zeitgeist, having most recently predicted the unstoppable return of precious metal cases with its BR 05 Green Gold model last year (an anchoring piece of our gold special, featured last issue.) The brand is masterful in having just what the market is hankering for, and of course serving its needs when it has a measure of unexpected success, which is what the BR 05 Chrono Grey Steel and Gold is. The story began with the BR 05 Chrono Edicion Limitada with Havana dial in 2022. Long story short, that watch sold out in such impressive style that Bell & Ross was properly motivated to follow up with a wide release (the brand website still has it in stock but we are informed that it is not available).

So, what do we have here? Most obviously, this is a bicompax chronograph with an integrated bracelet, featuring the bimetallic steel-and-rose-gold look that was once so promising (maybe Bell & Ross is suggesting that it could be again). The dial here is now grey ruthenium, and thus thoughts of having a second shot at the Havana dial perish. On that note, Bell & Ross say the metallic hues of the dial were obtained by a galvanic process so the brand has not skimped on its vaunted design chops here. The hands are rose gold, matching the corresponding elements on the bezel and bracelet, and are filled with SuperLuminova. While the numerals and hour makers might appear to follow the same pattern, these are all gilded; nevertheless, these are filled with SuperLuminova too (the hour markers, not the numerals).

For matters like this, and the gold tracks of the chronograph counters, it is best to check with your authorised dealer for the correct information as available manufacturer notes on these details can be contradictory. What is pretty clear in the release for this watch and our own notes is that that calibre BR-CAL.326 is a modified version of the Sellita SW510; the product specialists provided this detail while the official release simply noted that the calibre was reworked by Bell & Ross watchmakers. One sign of this reworking is the signature full disc of the winding rotor, visible via the exhibition caseback.

To finish up here, a few notes on the rose gold and the differences between versions. There is a rubber strap option but that is a separate reference priced at SGD 13,400. Another price worth noting is that of the Edicion Limitada, which is listed at SGD 18,200 (only with bracelet) and the standard steel BR 05 chronograph (SGD 9,700 with bracelet; SGD 8,700 with rubber strap). The most obvious question is the matter of price differential between the Grey Steel and Havana- dial references.

Movement: Automatic BR-CAL.326 with chronograph and date; 60-hour power reserve
Case: 42mm in steel and gold; water-resistant to 100m
Strap: Integrated steel and gold bracelet or rubber
Price: SGD 19,800

This article first appeared on WOW’s Summer 2024 issue.

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Red Dawn: Grand Seiko's New Spring Drive Chronograph GMT is Inspired By Nature

Grand Seiko Spring Drive Chronograph GMT

A little more than 20 years ago, the Spring Drive technology made its debut in a Grand Seiko watch. That now-classic calibre is still the basis for the 9R series that powers all Grand Seiko Spring Drive watches. To celebrate this milestone, Grand Seiko busted out a new Spring Drive Chronograph GMT, inspired by the mountainous landscape in summer. This watch features a novel “dial-processing” technology that captures the Japanese appreciation for the delicate transition of time, reflected in the changing colours of summer mornings in this special place. In other words, this is Grand Seiko putting its interpretation of nature onto a dial.

To be more specific, the reddish hue is what the watchmakers see on summer mornings, for just 30 minutes before and after sunrise, when the sun illuminates the peaks of the Hotaka mountain range in
a unique way. The colour-changing dial of the watch represents this moment, made possible by a patented "Optical Multilayer Coating" process; savvy collectors will recognise this as a hallmark technology of the Seiko Epson watchmaking facility where one can see the Hotaka mountain range light up. Layers of nanoscale film come together to create an effect where the dial exhibits different hues depending on the viewing angle <having seen the watch in person, we can report that this is indeed very cool, as long as one does not expect the colours to change radically.

The new SBGC275 features the beefy and angular Tokyo Lion design. This lion’s presence is evident in the angular case and claw-like, hairline-finished lugs, which contrast with the Zaratsu-polished surfaces. Water-resistant to 200 meters, the watch is technically a go-anywhere-do-anything kind of piece, with caveats. The hour and minute hands are designed for enhanced legibility, and the wide indexes further boost the superior readability for which Grand Seiko is renowned.

The case and bracelet are made of high-intensity titanium, about 30 percent lighter than stainless steel, and brighter to boot. The bracelet is crafted for comfort, with thick, H-shaped links that promise easy conformity. The hour and minute hands, as well as the hour markers, are coated with green-glowing Lumibrite, while the GMT hand and the numbers on the bezel glow blue, enhancing legibility in the dark.

The timepiece is powered by the Spring Drive Chronograph GMT Caliber 9R96, a riff on Caliber 9R86. Caliber 9R96 offers an accuracy of ±10 seconds per month, or ±0.5 seconds per day, compared with the well-known ±15 seconds per month accuracy of Caliber 9R86.

Movement: Spring Drive Calibre 9R96 with chronograph and second-time zone; 72-hour power reserve
Case: 44.5mm in titanium; water-resistant to 200m
Strap: Bracelet
Price: USD 13,400; limited edition of 700

This story was first seen on WOW’s Summer 2024 Issue.

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Green Waves

*Laurent Ferrier Grand Sport Tourbillion Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition*

In 2019, just as the fine sports wristwatch with integrated bracelet began to emerge from the shadow of iconic 1970s designs, Laurent Ferrier demonstrated that it was possible to be entirely original with the Grand Sport Tourbillon. We revisit this achievement with the new Laurent Ferrier Grand Sport Tourbillon Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition, which is amongst the tribute watches released in honour of the 70th anniversary of retailer Sincere Fine Watches in Singapore. In brief, the Laurent Ferrier Grand Sport Tourbillon Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition introduces a brand new dial but maintains the pebble-like form of the Grand Sport collection and the exquisitely finished calibre LF 619.01.

This movement is marked by the caseback-side tourbillon and its twin balance springs; while other brands do use a double balance spring and it has featured elsewhere, Laurent Ferrier is the only brand making this style of tourbillon wristwatch. Why are two balance springs superior to the usual single balance spring? It comes down to how the springs oscillate in opposite directions. Like any other spring, balance springs (otherwise known as hairsprings) deform while oscillating or “breathing,” albeit very minimally. The second hairspring solves the problem. The downside is how much extra complexity this adds, which is especially true with calibre LF 619.01, given that there is a tourbillon in play. Just one issue to consider is power consumption, what with all the moving parts of the tourbillon; Laurent Ferrier manages to deliver 80 hours of power reserve, despite the extra complexity.

*An intimate look at the watch face of the Laurent Ferrier Grand Sport Tourbillon Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition; note the Super-Luminova-filled white gold Assegai hands and indices*

In the world of haute horlogerie, the Grand Sport Tourbillon is quite well known, especially since the Pursuit model won the Best Tourbillon watch prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) last year. Laurent Ferrier was also the first brand to go all-in with the fine sports elegance watch; the original Grand Sports Tourbillon boasts the most consummately finished tourbillon movement to ever grace a proper sports watch. Consequently, that 2019 model was the most exclusive of the new crop of fine sports wristwatches with integrated bracelets. The Laurent Ferrier Grand Sport Tourbillon Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition maintains this distinction, limited as it is to 12 pieces.

*An intricate view of the exquisite finishing on calibre LF 619.01.*

We will reiterate the virtues of the movement and case of this Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition, but first there is the matter of the dial to discuss. Justifiably, this may have caught your attention immediately and it is even more impressive in the metal. While Laurent Ferrier does have other shades of green in its assortment, this dial is a first for the brand in many ways. Of course, you likely know that this is the only green dial of any sort in the Grand Sport collection, but this “petrol green” is a first for Laurent Ferrier and is “inspired by the waves of the South China Sea that borders Singapore, Thailand, and Malaysia,” according to Sincere. These countries are where the retailer has had a strong presence throughout its history. On that note about waves, the pattern on the dial is created via traditional guilloche; it is also lacquered with a black gradient finish.

Looking at the spec sheet for the Laurent Ferrier Grand Sport Tourbillon Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition confirms that it maintains all its virtues, including its 44mm diameter and 13.4mm height. The case is in 5N red gold, paired with a petrol-green Nubuck leather strap lined with Alcantara, which is another first for Laurent Ferrier. It is worth remembering that the Grand Sport case is water-resistant to 100 metres and that its signature onion crown does not detract from this. Instead, it signifies just how special the Grand Sport Tourbillon Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition is, and the secret its translucent petrol green guilloche dial hides.

Those who know will no doubt ask the owner to show them the movement side – it is truly a treat to break out the loupe and see if one can spot all the 30 internal angles of just the tourbillon cage, to say nothing of the other 187 components of calibre LF 619.01. This level of finishing is beyond reproach and worthy of closer scrutiny. The fortunate owner of this watch will always have a conversation-starter on his wrist and would do well to keep a loupe handy when the inevitable requests come to admire the watch.

The entire series of 12 Laurent Ferrier Grand Sport Tourbillon Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition watches are exclusive to Sincere Fine Watches.

The watch retails for SGD 328,000, including GST

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Rolex GMT-Master and GMT-Master II Are The Ultimate Globetrotter Companions

Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II, 40 mm, Oystersteel

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II is the ultimate cosmopolitan watch. Developed for professionals who criss-cross the globe, it debuted in 1982 as the successor to the GMT-Master, which was introduced in 1955.

Aesthetics-wise, the GMT-Master II speaks the same design language as the 1955 original – a testament to the brand’s perfection of the line’s style and technical design from the get-go. Meanwhile, decades of technical advancements have kept it at the forefront of watchmaking, where it remains as the GMT watch of choice for discerning connoisseurs.

The 1950s and 1960s were periods of great progress. Civil aviation, in particular, saw major advancements such as the development of passenger jets. This, coupled with the booming global economy, led to a burgeoning demand for air travel – for the first time in humanity’s history, large numbers of people were rapidly travelling across time zones.

Photo of lieutenant and engineer William J. Knight. On 3 October 1967, piloting the rocket-powered X-15, he set the highest speed ever recorded, 7,274 km/h (Mach 6.7), wearing a GMT-Master.

Against this backdrop, Rolex developed the original GMT-Master. It was a true tool watch, with a design that remains de rigueur for GMT-function models even today, featuring two anchoring characteristics. The first: a large triangle-tipped hand that circled the dial in 24 hours. The second: a bidirectional rotatable bezel with a 24-hour graduation, with the most classic iteration having red and blue halves to visually demarcate daytime and nighttime respectively.

Together, these features formed the GMT complication; by setting the bezel, the GMT-Master could display a second-time zone simultaneously for the wearer, who simply had to read the 24-hour hand. Professionals such as pilots and myriad others now had at-a-glance access to a second-time zone.

GMT-Master, stainless steel, red and blue Plexiglas insert, 1955, ref. 6542

Following its introduction, the GMT-Master quickly established its reputation in aviation and came to epitomise the aeronautical watch, accompanying many groundbreaking achievements. This included the first non-stop transatlantic flight from New York to Moscow made by a Pan Am Intercontinental Jet Clipper, as well as the Mach 6.7 speed record set by the hypersonic X-15 experimental aircraft.

The GMT-Master also found itself being relied upon in other fields, where it witnessed triumphs on the wrists of globetrotters, explorers, and adventurers alike. The Pegasus Overland expedition, for instance, was accomplished over 51 weeks across 34 countries with a GMT-Master on the wrist of each team member. Likewise, certain astronauts of Apollo 13, 14 and 17, wore GMT-Master timepieces on their respective missions.

GMT-Master, stainless steel, red and blue bezel insert, 1959, ref. 1675 (above)

Constant Progress

Never one to rest on its laurels, Rolex introduced a new movement in 1982, ensuring that the GMT- Master continued to evolve and adapt to the needs of a perpetually changing world. The calibre 3085’s defining feature was how its hour hand could be adjusted forward and backward in one-hour increments – independently of the other hands, and without stopping the movement. With this, local time could now be quickly and easily set by the wearer as they crossed the globe. To clearly mark this evolution, the watch with the new movement was named the GMT-Master II. The two models would be offered simultaneously until the discontinuation of the original in 2000.

Indeed, both the GMT-Master and GMT-Master II have seen a slew of technical innovations developed by Rolex, to ensure that the latest iteration of each watch would always be the most aesthetically and technically accomplished. And it is this constant march that has helped to forge the line’s reputation for excellence.

The 24-hour graduated bezel, an anchoring feature for the line, has unsurprisingly been a focus for various improvements. The original GMT-Master initially sported a Plexiglas bezel insert, which was shortly after updated to an aluminium one in 1959. In 2005, Rolex introduced the first bezel insert made of ceramic on a Rolex watch. This significant update did not just mean a virtually scratchproof bezel, but also confirmed Rolex’s place at the cutting edge of innovation for research and development into high-tech ceramic components.

Red and blue Cerachrom bezel insert during surface polishing, following coating of the inscriptions.

Rolex followed up with a two-tone, black-and-blue bezel in 2013. The release marked yet another milestone, as the brand had achieved the first two-colour monobloc Cerachrom bezel insert – it represented a triumph of engineering and applied research. The classic red-and-blue Cerachrom bezel insert was introduced the following year, with additional colours unveiled subsequently. They share the same crucial traits: even saturation for each coloured area, and a perfectly clear demarcation between them thanks to precisely controlled production parameters and processes that are patent-protected.

Integration of the oscillator in calibre 3186, with which the GMT-Master II was equipped from 2005 to 2018.

In the same vein, the 24-hour “GMT” hand has undergone various iterations over the decades. Initially slimmer and more discreet, it was given a bolder design after 1959 for enhanced legibility. The triangle at the tip, in particular, was enlarged for greater visual weight. Today, the “GMT” hand is recognised both for its legibility and balanced design, with perfected details including the luminescent material at its tip, as well as a main body that is lacquered in a matching colour with the lower half of the bezel for some references.

24-hour hands of different versions of the GMT-Master II.

Beneath the dial, Rolex has kept a steady pace of improvements to the movement too. In 2005, for instance, the brand upgraded the GMT-Master II’s movement to calibre 3186, which featured its proprietary Parachrom hairspring for greater resistance against magnetic fields, shock, and temperature changes. Calibre 3285 followed in 2018 and incorporated the Chronergy escapement for improved efficiency and magnetic resistance – with the oscillator mounted on Paraflex shock absorbers for enhanced shock resistance, no less. No details have been overlooked; since 2023, Rolex has fitted the movement’s oscillating weight with an optimised ball bearing.

The GMT-Master II Today

Calibre 3285, which powers the latest generation of GMT-Master II watches

Like every other model in Rolex’s line-up, the latest iteration of the GMT-Master II is always the best possible – both technically and aesthetically. The two references for the GMT-Master II in Oystersteel with grey and black Cerachrom bezel insert, which were unveiled earlier this year, showcase this perpetual quest for perfection.

Both references have been fitted with calibre 3285, of course, and benefit from Rolex’s latest technologies including the Chronergy escapement and blue Parachrom hairspring. The combination of the movement’s barrel architecture and its escapement’s efficiency gives the timepieces an approximately 70-hour power reserve.

GMT-Master II, Oystersteel, grey and black Cerachrom bezel insert, 2024, ref. 126710 GRNR

On the exterior, the most striking element of the new watches is their Cerachrom bezel insert in black and grey. This colourway blends in subtly with the familiar Oyster case – rendered here in Oystersteel – with the platinum-coated recessed graduations on the bezel tying all the details together. For a touch of visual interest, the black lacquer dial bears the inscription ‘GMT-Master II’ in green, echoing the colour of the triangle-tipped 24-hour hand – an element that features strongly in the model’s design.

The difference between the new references concerns the choice of bracelet, with both the Jubilee and Oyster bracelets available. The Oyster bracelet sports a three-link design and is known for its robustness. It is also the most universal bracelet within the Oyster Perpetual collection. The Jubilee bracelet, on the other hand, has five links that has given it a reputation for suppleness and comfort. Both bracelets have been fitted with the Oysterlock folding safety clasp, and feature up to five millimetres of fine adjustment with the Easylink comfort extension link.

Roger Federer, former tennis player and Rolex Testimonee, wearing a GMT-Master II in Oystersteel featuring a bezel with a grey and black Cerachrom insert.

The finishing touch concerns the certification standards that Rolex applies to all its timepieces. Each complete GMT-Master II, consisting of both the case and movement, is covered by the Superlative Chronometer certification redefined by Rolex in 2015. This builds and improves on the industry standard set by COSC – not just with an improved precision of +2/-2 seconds a day, but also with requirements for waterproofness, self-winding performance, and power reserve. Rolex backs this with an international five-year guarantee.

The GMT-Master line was envisioned as a tool for professionals to keep track of the time in two different time zones but has grown well beyond this original raison d’être. Today, it also represents a link to a location elsewhere – a place of significance for the wearer, whether as a memory, a plan, or something else entirely. For those who venture across time zones and frontiers, it will continue to be a loyal companion, as it has been for nearly seven decades.

This article is slated to appear in WOW’s Summer 24 Issue, out soon.

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Fifty Fathoms 42 Automatique: Blancpain Unveils Second Iteration of "World’s First Proper Diver’s Watch"

After making a big splash last year with a three-act anniversary for the Fifty Fathoms, Blancpain introduces two new 42mm Fifty Fathoms Automatique models, which are now part of the regular collection. We wrote extensively about the Fifty Fathoms, arguably the world’s first proper diver’s watch, last year and this new iteration basically expands on last year's 42mm steel Fifty Fathoms 70th Anniversary Act 1 limited edition. The new models differ most significantly in the choice of materials: red gold and grade 23 titanium. Steel is unlikely to enter the picture any time soon, to honour the Act 1 watch’s special position.

Returning for a moment to the dive watch heritage, the Fifty Fathoms remains the class leader for this style of watch with a fine watchmaking movement. In other words, the new Fifty Fathoms 42 is a professional beater with a reliable engine that also looks good, which any observer can check via the exhibition caseback. We shall return to calibre 1315 later but we must address key points about the differences between the two versions of this model, which happen to lean into the two very different ways of considering the Fifty Fathoms.

The red gold version offers elegance and sophistication, while the grade 23 titanium version projects sports indestructibility. Grade 23 titanium, the purest form of titanium, is lightweight, highly resistant to scratches and corrosion, and has anti-allergenic properties. Both the titanium and red gold cases go well with the sapphire-topped bezel.

The new Fifty Fathoms 42 Automatique watches are available with either a blue or black dial (for both case materials). The red gold and titanium versions offer a wide choice of straps in matching colours, including sail-canvas, NATO, and Tropic textured rubber inspired by the 1953 model. Only the titanium version offers a matching bracelet.

As mentioned earlier, Calibre 1315 is a big part of what makes the Fifty Fathoms so desirable, as far as dive watches are concerned. Blancpain itself states that the movement is finished according to haute horlogerie standards but this does not mean one should expect to see hand-finishing in every bevelled edge. Indeed, Calibre 1315 is a great example of how exceptional machine finishing can be, if applied expertly.

Movement: Automatic calibre 1315 with date; 120-hour power reserve
Case: 42.3mm in red gold or titanium; water-resistant to 300m
Strap: Rubber
Price: From SGD 26,400 (titanium)

This article is slated to appear in WOW’s Summer 24 Issue, out soon.

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