Why the Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Petite Seconde Is the Connoisseur’s Choice

If there is one watch that we have praised in every issue this year, often with no good reason other than the fact that we like it, it must be the Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Petite Seconde. This is the sort of watch that we imagine ourselves wearing one day, when our tastes finally mature. Actually, we shall be so bold as to say it is exactly the kind of watch that all enthusiasts and collectors should want to own. Unlike far too many statement watches trying to give you whiplash, the Toric Petite Seconde invites quiet contemplation. Oh yes, and that is for owners only; onlookers will simply walk on by, none the wiser.

Now, in doing this story we run the risk of writing ourselves into a corner in the coming Festive issue. Longtime readers can guess that there will be a major story on Parmigiani Fleurier soon, and the specific subject has not been decided. By running this piece now, we risk having to go a different route. Think of it as taking a weekend trip to your dream destination, when you have an extended trip to the same spot coming up. But we love this watch too much to pass on any chance to celebrate it. To be fair, Parmigiani Fleurier just released some new materials to support the arrival of the new Toric watches in Singapore so the timing is right. The watch has also just been nominated for the GPHG, alongside notable Parmigiani Fleurier models in six categories. That has to be some kind of record but that is not the subject of this tale.

You may also have noticed that we covered the Toric collection once before, in the Summer issue, so what could we or Parmigiani Fleurier bring to the table. Certainly not a new watch. Instead, the brand doubled down on its sartorial ambitions and horological prowess with a special news pack on the Toric collection. This includes cleverly crafted takes on the Chronographe Rattrapante and Petite Seconde from the editors of The Rake (including Revolution founder and original gentleman influencer Wei Koh), and France’s Monsieur. These commentaries bring additional perspective into the conversation about a collection that needs more contemplation.

In recognition, Parmigiani Fleurier has made much more than just the basic information available from the original release during Watches and Wonders Geneva. CEO Guido Terreni told us then that he thinks most people only tune in to watch the news at special moments, like WWG for example, and perhaps Geneva Watch Days too; the GPHG probably only makes the news feeds of watch afficionados. Well, perhaps he has found a fresh way to get people to take notice but it probably only works when the collection is as well put together as the Toric is. For example, the Toric brings back the lost dial decorative art called "grenage," which was revived by none other than Michel Parmigiani. Bridge-side, a lot of emphasis has been given over to the importance of handwork and traditional (antique) machining. When a watch collection is as low-key as the Toric, it needs a lot of careful explaining.

Simply saying that "grenage" has been used for the dial is meaningless because no one, or hardly anyone, will know what that means. Briefly, this technique sees tartar cream and sea salt ground together with a glass pestle, with the results joining forces with grains of silver and demineralised water to form a paste. This paste is applied to the base dial with a horn spoon. It is then brushed in all directions (presumably as evenly as possible) with a brush (with fine bristles) to eventually get the grains of silver to stick. This must all be done in semi-darkness because silver is famously photosensitive (meaning it reacts to light). If nothing else, this description evokes more questions so the value of space for explanations is clear.

The dial, along with the gold movement and the artisanal nubuck alligator strap, goes a long way to revealing the qualities of the Toric collection. Unfortunately, we do not have the space to get into details about the movements and straps but our longer treatise will hopefully cover it all. Consider for a moment that we have not even recounted the details of the watches, in terms of specifications. See you in the next installment of this evolving story, where we will dive even deeper into more of the details that define the Toric.

This article first appeared on WOW’s Legacy Issue #75

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Rolex's Persuit of Perfection

Final visual and functional check of an Oyster Perpetual Datejust 41

With all the technological advancements and innovations regularly emerging from the world of haute horlogerie today, it is almost hard to fathom a time when mechanical wristwatches were seen as finicky timekeepers, valued more for their looks than their reliability. Harder still to imagine that this era was as recent as the early 20th century — a mere two generations ago. But it was Rolex that changed everything.

Deeply dissatisfied with the unreliable state of horology in his day, founder Hans Wilsdorf made it his life’s mission to transform the wristwatch from a mere piece of jewellery into a reliable instrument capable of keeping up with the movements of individual wearers and the vagaries of their increasingly active daily life. To accomplish this, he focused on three key innovations:

Each watch certified as a Superlative Chronometer comes with Rolex’s green seal.

The first was to be able to produce small movements as precise as marine chronometers, the absolute references of the period. The second, to develop a robust and waterproof case to protect the movements from external factors such as dust, moisture, splashes and perspiration. And the third, to fit the watch with a self-winding system that would offer the wearer greater convenience on a daily basis. By 1931, he had achieved all three goals.

Modern-day Rolex has not only carried that spirit of uncompromising excellence into the 21st century—it has expanded on it. Today, every Rolex watch bears the title of "Superlative Chronometer," a promise of exceptional quality expressed through eight core pillars: precision, waterproofness, autonomy, robustness, simplicity, craftsmanship, comfort, and durability.

Assembly of a Rolex movement by hand, Exploded view of the Oyster case – 1926

Setting New Standards

Precision is the eternal pursuit of all watchmakers, but few have taken it as seriously as Rolex has from day one. In 1910, a Rolex became the first wristwatch to obtain a chronometric precision certificate from an official rating centre, and just four years later, it received a Class 'A' certificate from the Kew Observatory in England — the highest authority on chronometric precision at the time. Today, that authority is the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), and while all Rolex movements are COSC- certified, that alone was not enough. In order to be declared a ‘Superlative Chronometer’, the finished and assembled watch must then pass the Superlative Control tests. This certification, unique to the Rolex Manufacture, guarantees an exceptional precision of –2/+2 seconds per day, surpassing COSC’s standard of -4/+6 seconds per day.

Rolex proudly holds the distinction of being the inventor of the world’s first waterproof watch, the Oyster, introduced in 1926. However, it has never rested on this particular laurel. In 1953, Rolex enhanced this innovation by introducing the Twinlock crown, which paved the way for the Triplock crown in 1970, followed by the Ringlock system in 2008. Furthermore, it is not just the watches that are impervious to water and dust; the environments in which these watches are manufactured also maintain closely monitored humidity and air purity levels.

Watches in the Oyster Perpetual collection have a minimum water resistance of 100 metres, but Rolex has built in a safety margin of up to an additional 10 percent for base models and an extra 25 percent for diving watches. The Deepsea Challenge models, boasting an incredible water resistance of 11,000 metres, are additionally tested in ultra-high-pressure tanks to ensure they can withstand pressures at depths of 13,750 metres. The Oyster Perpetual designation signifies that a watch is not only waterproof but also self-winding, with an average autonomy of about 72 hours when unworn and unwound.

Winding system via a Perpetual rotor, presented by Rolex and patented in 1931 with the calibre that it equips, underneath.

Quality In Simplicity

Rolex watches are meant to be worn, which is why the Manufacture goes to great lengths to safeguard its timepieces against the rigours of daily life. This begins with the selection of only the highest quality materials, such as its proprietary Oystersteel and RLX titanium cases, as well as the vivid and scratch-proof high- tech Cerachrom bezels and bezel inserts. The robustness of Rolex watches is also assessed through tests that reproduce exposure to extreme conditions. There is a device that subjects the watches to a pressure of 4.5 tonnes; one that drops them from 20 different positions; as well as one that pounds them mercilessly. These tests ensure that the superlative performance of each watch will remain undiminished, whether it is strapped to the wrist of a mountaineer, a navigator, a deep-sea diver or a polar explorer.

Fitting of the Saros annual calendar’s month disc on a calibre 9002

Since its creation, Rolex has been driven by the conviction that mechanical simplification is a measure of performance and reliability. The Cosmograph Daytona, for instance, despite being a showcase of timing expertise par excellence, is composed of only 314 components. The same goes for the development of the Saros annual calendar. Unveiled in 2012 on the Sky-Dweller, this annual calendar requires only an additional four gear trains and two gear ratios to display the date. Even operating the Sky-Dweller is an exercise in simplicity, thanks to the Ring Command system, which allows the wearer to effortlessly set the date, month, local time, and reference time using the rotating bezel and crown.

Metiers d’art (artistic crafts) is evident in every detail of a Rolex watch, regardless of how utilitarian the model may be. From the way the middle cases catch and reflect light to the optimised geometry and curvature of the watch case and bracelet, every millimetre adheres to Rolex’s exacting standards of aesthetic artistry. Even its glamorous gem-set watches follow the same principles, with craftsmen selecting only the highest-quality stones and setting them with exceptional mastery and polish.

The waterproofness of each finished watch is tested in a hyperbaric tank

Tested and Proven

The comfort of the wearer, a quality brought to the fore by the advent of the wristwatch, has become an essential part of the quest for excellence that Rolex has embarked upon. Continuous improvements in wearability have resulted in innovative features like the Oysterlock safety clasp and the additional Easylink, Rolex Glidelock and Fliplock extension systems.

While wear and tear are inevitable, Rolex is committed to mitigating their effects. The sheer variety of machines the company has developed for stress-testing its products is staggering. Some machines are dedicated to shaking bracelets, while others continuously open and close the clasps. There are machines that soak watches in chlorine and salt, spray them with sand, and subject them to intense heat or cold. However, machines cannot replicate every scenario, so prototypes are worn by real people for years before the final watches are ready for series production.

This extreme — some might even call it draconian — approach to quality control has always been a priority at Rolex. And so every Rolex watch is, in every sense of the word, a superlative masterpiece.

This article first appeared on WOW’s Legacy Issue #75

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Patek Philippe Cubitus Breaks Tradition with Revolutionary Square Design

Patek Philippe has launched its first new collection of watches in 25 years with the Cubitus, which is also the Geneva watchmaker’s first square watch to enter the permanent collection. There are three new Patek Philippe Cubitus references for now, two time-only with date models (Ref. 5821/1A-001 and 5821/1AR-001) and one very impressive grand date watch with day of the week and moon phase indications (Ref. 5822P-001).

To dig into this a bit for those for whom the naming terms are arcane, Ref. 5821/1A is cased in steel, with a matching bracelet while Ref. 5821/1AR combines steel and rose gold, again with a bracelet that matches. In terms of movements, which is at the heart of any conversation about Patek Philippe watches, the simple models use existing calibres (26-330 S C) while the complicated model introduces a new one (240 PS CI J LU).

Real news is harder to find in watchmaking than evidence of water on Mars but this reveal by Patek Philippe certainly qualifies. Yes, it is that significant. We will have much more to say about Ref. 5822P but first, we must discuss the character of the collection, which means the look and feel. You will not be alone in thinking that the Cubitus looks like some kind of long lost Nautilus relative and Patek Philippe does reference the sports elegance concept, which is closely related to that legendary collection. Patek Philippe President Thierry Stern notes that what we see as Nautilus references are really key elements of the brand his family has led for three generations. He also noted that a true square watch was always in his mind.

"(Two reasons why the square shape is important), first because I never had it in (the brand’s permanent) collection, and I always enjoy seeing some of the square watches (from other brands),” said Stern. "And secondly, because I thought it would be good to surprise people with it. It's a personal challenge for me also to say, well, nobody expected me to go there!"

As for the name, apparently, Cubitus just popped into Stern’s mind before anything else. At the press briefing for the launch, it was clear that many options were considered in the four years or so that the collection was in development. The use of the existing calibres, including the base 240 calibre, does indicate that the brand was flexible in its approach.

Those familiar with the Nautilus will note that the Cubitus looks to be a sort of second coming in particular for the now-discontinued Ref. 5711A. If this occurred to you, consider that there are no significant models in sports elegance from any brand that are square. Not to make comparisons but since Stern brought it up, even icons such as the Cartier Santos or Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso are either not square or not sports elegance.

In short, this is new territory for Patek Philippe, even if it appears to be finding water in the Sahara rather than off-world. On that note, we do not expect the heat of Ref. 5711 transferring to Ref. 5821, although Stern anticipates that new collection will be oversubscribed, just as the Nautilus and Aquanaut references are. On that somewhat gnarly subject of scarcity, Stern confirms that production will not be scaling up; for reference, current production levels are approximately 72,000 pieces annually and we had it last at 70,000 last year.

Finally, we will leave off with the feel of the watches, which we were privileged to experience at the launch in Munich. The brand promised that the feel of the piece would drive off any doubts we might have. The proof is in the wearing, especially since all three watches are 45mm. Of course, this is a proper square and the integrated lugs mean that the size is actually comfortable. For the versions with bracelets, the Nautilus impression will be unmistakeable, right down to the pins and the alternating finishings (which are also mirrored on the case, just like the Nautilus).

In this example, the images do tell the story, although we are curious to try a Nautilus on for comparison. Sadly, while such comparisons are useful, they will be difficult to arrange, given the availability issues. For now though, those of you who recall the Ref. 5711 fondly and missed it will find plenty to like about the Cubitus. Only time will tell if the Ref. 5821 will merit the same desirability. As for the technically compelling Ref. 5822, we will save that for another more detailed post because it deserves its own space.

And, to really finish, prices have been updated on the Patek Philippe website and the new watches shape up as follows: Ref. 5822P-001 – SGD 128,000; Ref. 5821/1A-001 – SGD 59,700; Ref. 5821/1AR-001 – SDG 88,700.

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Tissot’s PRX Breaks New Ground

As we have written more than a few times, it is difficult to find exciting watchmaking content that is also accessible. All too often, as novelty value increases, so too do price points – this is not unexpected given that watchmaking also operates on economies of scale. Take the forged carbon material, which was used exclusively by high-end watchmakers who charged a premium for it. The Tissot Sideral – subject of WOW's cover story from exactly a year ago – changed all that in dramatic fashion. It turns out that this was not a one-off for the brand, as part of WOW’s Autumn Issue #74 cover story examines.

This year, instead of revisiting the history of material experimentation at Tissot, we thought we would check in once again with CEO Sylvain Dolla for his thoughts. As it happens, Dolla is now into his 20th year at Swatch Group – he originally worked on the Swatch Paparazzi watch – and is, by his own admission, a true watch afficionado. Prior to taking charge at Tissot, Dolla spent 15 productive years at Hamilton and we are tempted to lay the credit for that brand’s successes at his feet too. That kind of thinking is complicated by the fact that Swatch Group is, well, a group, meaning there is more than one chef responsible for any given dish.

The PRX that captivated us in 2021, and especially the automatic version that featured on the cover of the Autumn issue that year, might actually be called Dolla’s. This is because he discovered – or rediscovered – the original 1970s model that would inspire the PRX, as he has told a number of publications, including us, Time and Tide and WatchPro, most recently. It was most assuredly not a watch that emerged from a focus group, as Dolla memorably explained to Alexandre Lindz of WatchAdvisor.

Runaway Success

If you wonder what it is about the PRX that explains its commercial prowess, this probably goes some way to explain matters. Basically, a watch enthusiast discovered a hidden treasure in the archives of the brand he was leading and had a gut instinct about it. Sounds about right for a successful sports elegance watch in the 2020s.

This issue, despite the soloist on the cover, the story is really an ensemble performance, running the gamut from the PRX Forged Carbon piece to the PRX Grendizer, a couple of new dial variants and the PR516. That said, if this is news to you then perhaps you have not had the full introduction to the PRX itself. Well, at any rate, you may not have heard what we had to say about the collection.

If you are discovering the Tissot PRX for the first time here, you have missed out on one of the biggest stories in Swiss watchmaking in recent memory. The unassuming quartz version of this model, also called PRX, was so successful it sold out in several markets. In 2021, no less. A few years later, the collection has made its mark and leveled up a few times – it has become a sign of the times, in a way that Tissot could not have foreseen with the first watch. As we noted three years ago, that is not the original watch and there is interesting history here.

Colourful Ensemble

You can sum up what makes the PRX special in just one word: desirability. We recognised this in 2021 and we stand by it – retrofuturism is a powerful design force in watchmaking today, perhaps more so than ever before. Whether the 40mm time-only watch or the more diminutive 35mm follow-up; the quartz debutant or the automatic chronograph; and now the new colourful variants, at least one PRX seems to be on everyone’s to-buy list. Probably more than one, if we are being honest, and this is where the new dial options come in. There are six such watches (three 40mm automatic models, one automatic 35mm model, and two 35mm quartz PRX variants), with dials ranging from gradiant blue to brushed pink. See the pictures of the real watches accompanying this story for references, which work better than descriptions anyway.

To reiterate and reinforce what we wrote in 2021, by everyone’s to-buy list here, we actually mean the rare convergence between collectors and people looking for nice everyday watches. The proportions work out for daily wear, unless your wrist is very large, in which case the 13.5mm thick PRX Automatic Chronograph might work – do also see the PR516 manual-winder later in this story.

On the subject of lugs here, the integrated bracelet is important because how the watch wears depends entirely on it. The virtually non-existent lugs of this roughly barrel-shaped case ensure a great fit, even if you need it to fit under your sleeve. Exceptionally form-fitting sleeves will be a problem though, making the slimmer quartz model (as little as 9.6mm versus up to 11.2mm for the automatic) a more logical decision. The sapphire crystal is flat, top and bottom alike so the thickness measurement is accurate here. Now, this is a total watch design, as mentioned, and it has sporty connotations. Tissot recognises and references this directly in the name PRX, which stands for Precise, Robust and water-resistant to 100 meters (X means 10 bar, with bar being a gauge of pressure). All that aside, PRX is a pretty cool name.

Future Tense

Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 models with refreshed dials

Just as the PRX confronts us with a new view of Tissot, it also opens the door to entire chapters of the brand’s history that may have been neglected in recent years. Indeed, when Tissot began using automatic movements with the silicon balance springs that Swatch Group developed, we were tremendously excited. While these technically advanced mechanical components were, in 2018, still mainly in use at Omega, Blancpain and Breguet, we never thought that a balance spring should mark anything as high-end. After all, no one is going to see this, or recognise it even if they do see it. Yes, even the wearer. What mattered, and still matters, is the watch.

In 2018, this was the Tissot Ballade and it was a handsome watch that could have been yours for less than USD1,000. The market seemed more skeptical, especially given the necessary increase in prices. We were convinced there was interest in automatic watches from Tissot that went beyond the basic ETA variants. Bear in mind that Tissot makes gold wristwatches and pocket watches, and its history is marked by a desire to bring innovation to the largest possible group. This is the true starting line for the story of the Tissot PRX.

Now we get to the direct origins of the PRX in general. Tissot says the current model references a Seastar watch from 1978, but you might just as easily link it with the PR516 models from the early 1970s. To get the official perspective on the PRX and its place in Tissot’s history, we went directly to Dolla. “Since the PRX is a model originally released in 1978, our objective was to give a renewal to this piece that could suit today's vintage craze. It shows Tissot's desire to remain tied to its roots, while being able to adapt to current trends. Nowadays and more than ever, new challenges naturally drive new strategies, but it will never change our background and history nonetheless.”

PRX Grendizer

When news about the Tissot collaboration with the classic manga and anime UFO Robot Grendizer emerged, we could scarcely believe it. This is certainly a first for Tissot and marks possibly the first such collaboration between a Swiss watchmaker and the creators of a Japanese comic book, which is what manga is. We were so pumped for this that we were torn about not having it for the cover; the story here is very rich, but admittedly, for pure watchmaking content, the Forged Carbon model is the right choice. Nevertheless, since that watch gets its due elsewhere as well, we devote a bit of extra time to the Tissot PRX Grendizer.

Although this PRX Grendizer is just one model, it may yet herald more cross-cultural adventures for Tissot. The decision to go with the PRX model, an inherently 1970s proposition, and a manga popular in Switzerland in the 1970s is perhaps loaded with meaning. It probably had some impact on the childhood experiences of a number of high-ranking watch industry executives, the most famous and public of whom is, of course, Max Busser. In fact, it was the first MB&F watch that brought Grendizer into the headspace of editors because Busser began talking about how his childhood obsessions were feeding his creativity. Well, it turns out Dolla was a fan as a child too... More than 20 years later, a major force in Swiss watchmaking – part of the largest industrial group of watchmakers in the world – is embracing Grendizer just as a remake of the series, Grendizer U debuts.

On that note, the manga deserves a short introduction all its own. Created by the father-figure of the super robot genre, Go Nagai, the plot concerns an alien prince who flees the destruction of his world with his super robot called Grendizer. Finding shelter on earth, the prince and the robot he commands find themselves defending the world against the same enemy that laid waste to his home. In tribute, the dial also bears the original Japanese title of the series: UFOロボグレンダイザー.

This is only the opinion of the editorial staff but Grendizer is a powerful symbol, even for those without any grounding in the world of the manga. The image of Grendizer, stamped onto the blue dial of the PRX UFO Robot Grendizer, is magnetic. You do not have to take our word for it – just look at it, and imagine it in low light, when the yellow SuperLuminova allows the bust of the robot to literally glow. In this situation, you will also notice that the hands and markers of the watch, also treated with Super-Luminova glow a different colour (blue). No doubt this was done for legibility reasons but it does provide the watch with a lively spirit, approaching a certain view of neon-drenched Tokyo. Finally, note that the second hand, with its Harken motif is not Super-Luminova treated.

PR516

The second and final watch we will get into is the PR516, which is a chronograph we have had awhile to consider since it debuted earlier this year. This is a significant chronograph by any measure, given that it is a manual-winder. We were speechless when we learned of this piece, which is unprecedented at Tissot – it also showcases the newly developed Valjoux A05.291 movement. Tissot says it is derived from the workhorse 7753 calibre that plenty of enthusiasts are familiar with. This move was so significant that Tissot sent out a technical press release for it, which itself is quite an event. For some context, remember that it is usually only the most traditional of watchmakers who make manual-winding chronographs, and they do so to honour the legacy of fine watchmaking.

Obviously, a manual-winder from Tissot was unexpected to say the least, and we will say that there is no meticulous hand-finishing to admire via the exhibition caseback. This is not the point though – what is interesting is that Tissot thinks there is an appetite for this sort of watch. On its website, Tissot makes a special place for chronographs, and the PR516 is the only one listed in the “mechanical” category. If an enthusiast finds this watch while looking for a PRX, for example, he will certainly be pleasantly surprised – it is always fun to watch a manual chronograph calibre in action, without the rotor to get in the way. At SGD 2,620, the PR516 offers a nigh unbeatable proposition from the value perspective too. It must be said here that Tissot is certainly leveraging the industrial capabilities of Swatch Group to offer a chronograph with up to 68 hours of power reserve and an antimagnetic escapement featuring precision laser regulation. Suffice to say that nothing like this exists at this price point.

Photography by ching@greenplasticsoldiers
Styling by Gregory Woo

This article first appeared on WOW’s Autumn Issue #74

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Ferdinand Berthoud Celebrates the 70th Anniversary of Singapore’s Sincere Fine Watches With The Ferdinand Berthoud Ch …

The Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 1RES.3 Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition exemplifies horological artistry, innovation, and a dedication to fine craftsmanship. This limited-edition timepiece, created to commemorate the 70th anniversary of Singapore’s Sincere Fine Watches, blends historical inspiration with modern technical excellence. Ferdinand Berthoud, a brand launched in 2015 by Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, Co-President of Chopard and President of Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud, has consistently pushed the boundaries of mechanical watchmaking, and this creation continues that legacy. This also befits the fame of historical watchmaker Ferdinand Berthoud (1727-1807), for whom the brand is named.

The Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 1RES.3 Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition revisits the renowned octagonal case that has been inextricably linked with Ferdinand Berthoud since 2015. Measuring 44mm, the case houses a satin-brushed salmon dial made from gilded 4N nickel-silver, offering a glimpse of the celebrated Calibre FB-RES.FC with a broad opening from 3 o'clock to 6 o'clock that reveals three bridges converging at the center of the dial. This calibre is a testament to Ferdinand Berthoud's engineering mastery, utilising a fusee-and-chain transmission system paired with a remontoir d’égalité for precision. Drawing inspiration from marine chronometers of the 18th century, the timepiece adopts a minimalist approach, highlighting hours, minutes, dead-beat seconds, and a power reserve indicator.

Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 1RES.3 Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition (pictured above)

The salmon dial, protected by a domed, glare-proofed sapphire crystal, reveals the intricate skeletonisation and decoration that highlight the movement's complexity. At 9 o’clock, the power reserve indicator is displayed.

The timepiece's movement is a marvel of precision engineering and traditional craftsmanship. Operating at 18,000 vibrations per hour (vph) with a power reserve of 50 hours, the Calibre FB-RES.FC uses the aforementioned fusee-and-chain mechanism to maintain consistent torque throughout its operation. The system, which alone comprises 790 components, works in tandem with the remontoir d’égalité, which stores and regulates power before delivering a constant force to the balance. This precision mechanism ensures accurate timekeeping and drives the dead-beat seconds hand in one-second intervals.

The movement’s exceptional craftsmanship is visible through the caseback, fitted with sapphire crystal. Bridges and mainplates, made of nickel-silver, are skeletonised and hand-finished with bevelled edges that span a total combined length of two meters and require more than 250 hours to complete. Each wheel, screw, and bridge is meticulously decorated, showcasing the artistry synonymous with Ferdinand Berthoud.

This edition notably forgoes the laser-engraved Sincere emblem on the caseback, allowing for an unobstructed view of the intricate mechanism within. Instead, the platinum case is adorned with Sincere’s Platinum Jubilee emblem engraved along its side, commemorating the collaboration in a subtle yet significant manner. Despite its complexity, the watch remains visually harmonious, encapsulating Ferdinand Berthoud’s ethos of preserving traditional watchmaking while embracing modern techniques.

Limited to just three pieces, the Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 1RES.3 Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition will be available at Sincere Fine Watches boutiques at a retail price of SGD 452,800.

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Christiaan van der Klaauw Astronomical Watches Honors Sincere Fine Watches’ 70th Anniversary with the CVDK Grand Pla …

CVDK Grand Planetarium Eccentric Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition

Christiaan van der Klaauw Astronomical Watches (CVDK) celebrates its 50th anniversary with the unveiling of the CVDK Grand Planetarium Eccentric Manufacture, the world’s most advanced mechanical planetarium watch. On the back of revealing this new creation, CVDK went one better with an exclusive three-piece limited edition celebrating the 70^th anniversary of Sincere Fine Watches. The CVDK Grand Planetarium Eccentric Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition is distinguished by a unique dial, oil painted by Gaël Colon. There is a lot to unpack here so let us begin with a brief introduction to the watchmaker Christiaan van der Klaauw.

Renowned for his astronomical works of mechanical art, Dutch master watchmaker Christiaan van der Klaauw has built a reputation by crafting complex timepieces that capture celestial movements. The CVDK Grand Planetarium Eccentric Manufacture, the atelier’s most intricate work, is the only watch in the world capable of closely mirroring the reality of all eight planets’ orbits as accurately as possible, making it a true marvel of horological and astronomical artistry. Connoisseurs should note the presence of the Earth’s moon, and four each for Jupiter and Saturn. This is a unique touch for the CVDK Grand Planetarium Eccentric Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition.

Christiaan van der Klaauw, a longstanding member of the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI), has previously developed other complex astronomical watches and tides indicators. His planetarium watches, however, remain his signature pieces. In 1995, Christiaan van der Klaauw created the world’s smallest mechanical planetarium, which tracked the orbits of six planets: Mercury, Venus, Earth, Mars, Jupiter, and Saturn. Notably, Uranus and Neptune were missing because their orbital periods (84 and 165 years, respectively) posed significant technical challenges. The CVDK Grand Planetarium Eccentric Manufacture finally incorporates these outermost planets, overcoming the difficulty of representing their slow orbits in a wristwatch through painstaking manual calculations used to create specialised gear trains.

The making of the CVDK Grand Planetarium Eccentric Manufacture spanned across three generations of CVDK craftsmanship. Initially inspired by the CVDK Kepler’s Planetarium Clock designed by Christiaan van der Klaauw, Daniël and Maria Reintjes shaped the design over their 15 years at the helm. The original hand-drawn designs were transformed into a 3D CAD model, bringing the project to completion. This watch meticulously mimics the true paths of the planets, which follow eccentric orbits around the Sun, adding a realistic dimension to the display.

CVDK’s newly developed in-house movement features a complex arrangement of gears totalling 3,338 gear teeth. This movement includes a free-sprung hairspring, a variable-inertia balance wheel, and a power reserve of 60 hours, accompanied by decorative elements that reference the starry sky, including frosted star detailing and a skeletonised rotor in the shape of the CVDK logo, plated in rose gold.

The wondrous movement is visible via the exhibition caseback, which bears the engraving of the Sincere Platinum Jubilee emblem; notably, the case middle here also bears an engraving of this same emblem. This brings us, finally, to Gaël Colon’s specially executed dial for the CVDK Grand Planetarium Eccentric Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition. As you can easily see, the dial evokes a cosmological feel that brings the expanse of space and time into focus on the limited physical space of the 44mm watch. Gaël Colon’s dial is more than merely beautiful though because it is inspired by an early prototype made by Christiaan van der Klaauw. The watchmaker had spray-painted the design on his drawing board while developing the watch.

Encased in 18k yellow gold, the watch is 15mm thick and is water-resistant to 50m. Additional details include yellow gold-plated pomme hands and a rotating sun emblem in the centre to indicate the seconds. The CVDK Grand Planetarium Eccentric Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition will be available at Sincere Fine Watches boutiques and retails for SGD 280,000, including GST.

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Breguet’s Double Tourbillon Celebrates Innovation

Breguet Classique 5345 Quai de L'horloge

In June this year, fine watchmaking experienced one of its more unusual moments – a contemporary marketing approach that married history and tradition with a desire to overtake social media. In 1801, on June 26, Abraham-Louis Breguet patented the tourbillon and changed watchmaking forever; the contemporary brand that perpetuates his legacy likes to honour this occasion every year with a new creation. This year, it is the Classique Double Tourbillon 5345 “Quai de L'horloge,” which features the now-famous calibre 588N, presented here as calibre 588N2. We will say at the outset that it is impossible to do justice to a grand complication like reference 5345 with a short write-up. In 2022, the last version of this reference was part of our 10-page cover story in the Legacy issue.

That said, here is our best shot at a short take. The thing to remember when looking at this watch is that you must deploy your mind’s eye; a static visual conveys little of the magic here. For example, the double tourbillon uses a central differential to set the entire plate in motion to indicate the hours (it completes one rotation in 12 hours). At its debut in 2006, this was brilliant because it made of the tourbillon, otherwise a technical feature, a proper time indicator. The gold plate on which the tourbillons are mounted rotates with the (blue) hour hand, which also doubles as the upper bridge for one of the tourbillons. Its extension, in a different colour, acts as the bridge for the second tourbillon. This shared bridge is fixed to a central plate (rotating as noted above); each of the tourbillons still spins once per minute (as normal), and the watch takes the average rate of the escapements to keep track of time.

The above description works for all versions of this watch, including the original reference 5347. For reference 5345BR/1S/5XU, to give its full catalogue number, Breguet is engaged in showcasing the brand's expertise in both mechanics and artistic crafts. This new edition is housed in the expectedly large case to accommodate the calibre, with its twin tourbillons and three gear trains. The collector expecting subtlety here will have somehow failed to notice the Breguet motifs atop the mainspring barrels, acting as skeletonised bridges. Instead, the rose gold watch invites you to recall the late Nicolas G. Hayek, who was larger than life and famed for wearing multiple watches from the Swatch Group.

The back of the watch reveals the manual-winding calibre; it consists of 740 components, each one meticulously hand-finished by in-house craftspeople. While the technical marvels are most evident dial-side, the rear of the movement also showcases the aforementioned craftsmanship. The bridges are engraved with an aerial view of Abraham-Louis Breguet’s historic workshop at 39 Quai de l’Horloge in Paris. This intricate engraving, different from previous models, uses multiple techniques to create depth and perspective on the gold plate. It wants for nothing in drawing the eye; Hayek and Abraham-Louis would be proud.

Movement: Manual calibre 588N2 with double tourbillon; 50-hour power reserve
Case: 46mm in rose gold; water-resistant to 100m
Strap: Midnight blue rubber
Price: On application

This article first appeared on WOW’s Autumn Issue #74

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Bell & Ross BR-X5 Racing: Speed Meets Precision

Bell & Ross cites motorsports as the design inspiration behind the new BR-X5 Racing, although we confess the name clued us in before seeing the press release. As you can conclude from the visual evidence, the keywords here are performance, durability, readability and lightness. These are the very words the brand literally used, and we have to say that the BR-X5 could be a code that unifies all four words. Cleverly, the Racing watch is also a racer’s take on the pilot’s watch, thus unifying two of Bell & Ross’ muses. Basically, this is a fast watch that wants to go fast, and it looks like it has what it takes to achieve liftoff from your wrist. Ok, lyricism aside, let us address the nuts and bolts here – like the BR-X5 that debuted a couple of years ago this is a time-only ticker with date and power reserve indicator.

There are clear differences between the standard model and this Racing one, chiefly in materials and typography. Arabic numerals dominate the dial, with the hours intruding further into the centre. First looks might have you somewhat concerned about legibility but Bell & Ross has you covered with its dashboard-like dial. The brand works shapes and colours hard to spell functions out clearly, while also exposing the motionworks with what the brand calls “glass,” though it is not clear what sort. For enhanced readability, even in the dark, the hour markers and hands are coated with white Super-LumiNova® X1 material, which emits a green glow.

This leads directly into a discussion about materials, which for the X5 Racing is primarily titanium. The carbon fibre bit that will certainly have caught your attention is a plate of woven carbon integrated into the case. It all lends the watch a sense of lightness and strength, which is only appropriate given
all the motorsports talk. The design also prioritises functionality while emphasising “simplicity, radicality, lightness, and resistance.” From the side, the multi-part case construction showcases that there is more complexity here.

Four micro-blasted titanium screws hold the case's “sandwich” structure together. Two grade 2 micro-blasted titanium plates frame a black PVD titanium monobloc that houses the movement and integrates the chronograph-pusheresque crown guards. The strap (titanium or rubber) is of the integrated look and connects to the case via what the brand calls “plates”; ergonomics is reportedly superior but we have not seen the watch in the metal yet to confirm this. One thing that is certain is that the movement here is the same Kenissi-built manufacture BR-CAL.323, even if the appearance of the power reserve might give you pause for thought (as it did us). The BR-X5 is limited to 500 pieces worldwide.

Movement: Automatic BR-CAL.323 with date and power reserve indicator; 70-hour power reserve (approx.)
Case: 41mm in titanium; water-resistant to 100m
Strap: Bracelet or rubber
Price: From SGD 15,100

This article first appeared on WOW's Autumn Issue #74

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