Rolex Starts Their Next Chapter with the Oyster Perpetual Land-Dweller

Rolex Testimonee Roger Federer wears an Oyster Perpetual Land-Dweller 40 in a white Rolesor version

Rolex is a brand that has long taken pride in playing the long game. Unmoved by short-term trends, their novelties often come in the form of incremental changes, subtly upgrading the watches that have long stood as icons for the brand. Thus, when they release something entirely new, the watchmaking world sits up and takes notice. Launched this year, the Oyster Perpetual Land-Dweller represents the next chapter in the brand’s long and storied history. And although its aesthetics have been the point of many discussions among enthusiasts, arguably it is the leaps in technology that have made the Land-Dweller possible that deserves the attention. The 32 patent applications and patents that pertain to the watch represent the foundation for Rolex’s future. It is the culmination of the brand’s expertise today, the fruit of more than a century of experience in watchmaking.

Oyster Perpetual Land-Dweller 40, white Rolesor

EYE OF THE BEHOLDER

“‘A model to be inspired by our aesthetic heritage but looking to the future.’ This was the brief for the design of the Land-Dweller. Finding a harmonious balance between these two worlds was certainly our biggest challenge. We came up with creative new codes without ever losing sight of the brand’s DNA or its style. At the same time, we integrated technical innovations from the Research and Development Division in the most refined and elegant way possible,” says Davide Airoldi, head of design at Rolex.

The Land‑Dweller’s aesthetic reinterprets the style of watches with integrated bracelets. Explored in 1969 with the Rolex Quartz, then in 1974 on a Oyster Perpetual Datejust with a self-winding mechanical movement, this design presents a fluid, continuous line between case and bracelet. Although similar in spirit, every component from the Land-Dweller was redesigned to meet the rigorous expectations of Rolex today. The Oyster case had to be specifically developed for the model, with special consideration given to the waterproofness system around the crystal due to constraints from performing the technical satin finish on the upper part of the middle case. Additionally, the curved, polished sides of the new case are chamfered, and this bevel along the top edges is also polished. Even the fluted bezel, an emblematic signature of Rolex, has been redesigned, giving it a decidedly contemporary look with wider fluting compared to other Classic models.

Oyster Perpetual Land-Dweller 40, 950 platinum

The second most visible aesthetic element of the Land-Dweller is the honeycomb motif that adorns the dial. Its creation calls on traditional craftsmanship and high-technology methods, all mastered in-house. Time-honoured techniques are employed for the dial surface finishings: a fine satin finish for the intense white dial and a sunray finish on the ice blue version. These patterns are an intrinsic part of the Land-Dweller with a counterweight shaped like the cells of the honeycomb motif finding its way onto the seconds hand. The honeycomb pattern is precisely cut via a femtosecond laser and if you look closely in between the cells, there are delicate lines in the grooves between each cell, etched with the same laser.

Yet another first for Rolex is a reinterpretation of the classic Jubilee bracelet unveiled on the Datejust in 1945. The new Flat Jubilee bracelet was specifically designed to match the design codes of the Land-Dweller. It keeps the five-piece link structure with three narrower links in the centre flanked by two broader ones at the edges, the new bracelet differs in that all the links are flat. To add dimension to these flat links, a beautiful interplay of polished and technical satin finish is cleverly used. The centre links are polished and slightly raised, while the outer links are satin-finished for contrast. Additionally, the chamfered top edges of the outer links are also polished for visual harmony as they extend to the Oyster case as an uninterrupted stream of light.

INNOVATIVE SPIRIT

While the visual design of the Land-Dweller is what most will notice first, taking a loupe to the transparent case back, reveals hints as to why, out of the 32 patent applications, half of those pertain to the calibre 7135 movement. Looking right where the Syloxi hairspring ‘breathes’ as the balance wheel oscillates, there is a small hint of blue peeking out from beneath. This belongs to the revolutionary Dynapulse escapement. This new system replaces the Swiss lever escapement that has been regulating mechanical timekeepers for centuries, with a new concept that is significantly more efficient than its predecessor. The Dynapulse is a sequential distribution escapement which works by the components rolling against each other rather than sliding which was the case with the Swiss lever escapement. By replacing the sliding motion that lost some energy due to friction with a rolling motion, the Dynapulse escapement becomes more efficient. To make this work, Rolex designed the entire escapement to be made from silicon and created a whole new assembly and lubrication process.

Accompanying this new escapement is an oscillator that allows the watch to beat with a higher frequency of 5 Hz. This translates to 36,000 beats per hour meaning that the Land-Dweller is capable of measuring time with a precision of up to one-tenth of a second. To achieve this higher frequency, the Syloxi hairspring has been reshaped with thicker coils for greater rigidity. With this higher beat rate, the balance staff has also been made with a high-technology ceramic, patented and exclusive to Rolex.

The Flat Jubilee bracelet is not simply an aesthetic addition to the new Land-Dweller. To perfectly integrate the bracelet with the Oyster case, a robust and durable attachment had to be conceived. This novel and complex assembly is also the subject of a patent application. For the first time, small ceramic tubes were developed by Rolex to protect the spring bar against premature wear, as they secure the bracelet to the middle case.

With its debut, the Land-Dweller is available in two sizes: 36 mm and 40 mm. In terms of case and bracelet material, the Land-Dweller 40 comes in a white Rolesor version (combining Oystersteel and white gold). The Land-Dweller 36 is fasioned in 18 ct Everose gold, and set with ten baguette-cut diamond hour markers and surrounded by a bezel glittering with 44 trapeze-cut diamonds. Lastly, drafted from 950 platinum, the third version is a Land-Dweller 40 with a fluted bezel and a dial in ice blue, a colour reserved exclusively for watches in this prestigious material.

Oyster Perpetual Land-Dweller 36, 18 ct Everose gold

With the launch of the new Land-Dweller from Rolex, they are laying down the foundations for the future. It represents a new chapter in Rolex’s history, combining more than a century of experience, and a culmination of the brand’s expertise today. As they put it, “The Land-Dweller is designed for those well-grounded men and women who build their own destinies, seeing opportunity in every moment.”

Rolex Testimonee Yuja Wang wears an Oyster Perpetual Land-Dweller 36 in 18 ct Everose gold with a diamond-set bezel

Nomen Est Omen: The Rado Anatom Returns

From left: The Anatom Plasma High-Tech Ceramic and Anatom High-Tech Ceramic

PHOTOGRAPHY SOON LAU / AWESOME IMAGE STUDIO
ART DIRECTION SARAH SAW

Nostalgia is a powerful thing. So powerful, in fact, that there has been an overwhelming demand for reboots and revivals all over popular culture. Childhood cartoons are getting modern overhauls, computer games are seeing remakes, motorcycles and home appliances are taking their design cues from the past and more relevant to this magazine, watches are looking into their archives for inspiration. This fondness for the past, or rather, our memories of the past, is an undeniable generator of strong emotional responses. And in an industry like luxury watchmaking, where everything hinges on the emotional rather than the practical, it doesn’t come as quite a surprise when brands lean into their past to inspire their future.

The contemporary watchmaking industry has always been inspired by its history, taking mechanical watchmaking principles that have existed for centuries, to create miniature machines for the modern consumer, and along the way refining and updating these timekeeping devices with modern sensibilities. Rado is one of those brands that evoke a sense of nostalgia for many, especially in Malaysia. In the early 2000s, the scratchproof properties of the watch were the driver of its popularity, but it was not the dive-watch silhouette of the Captain Cook that many remember from the past, because the Captain Cook, one of the more popular Rado collections today, was only revived in 2017. In the early 2000s, it was actually the rectangular shapes of Rado watches that drove this sense of nostalgia. And in 2023, Rado revived one of these geometrical shapes born in the very retro year of 1983, and it was the Anatom.

Just in time for the 40th anniversary of the Anatom, Rado relaunched the collection in December of 2023. At the time, however, the watch came with Rado’s signature high-tech ceramic case, but it was paired with a rubber strap. I thought the pairing was slightly odd for a debut, as the original Diastar Anantom (more on the naming conventions later) did come with a hardmetal (tungsten carbide) case and a stainless-steel bracelet. Last year, I had the chance to chat with Rado’s CEO, Adrian Bosshard, and when I brought this ceramic-rubber pairing, he assured me that it wouldn’t be the case for long. Lo and behold, recently Rado finally unveiled the Anatom with a ceramic bracelet to match, and it absolutely deserves its spot on the cover

BACK IN THE DAY

So, where does the Anatom come from? To answer that question, we have to go back in time, back to 1983, when the mechanical watch industry was on the brink of collapse. The creation and proliferation of quartz movements threatened the very existence of their mechanical counterparts, rendering them almost obsolete. However, even before the advent of quartz, Rado was already working hard to solve another problem in watchmaking, scratch resistance.

In the annals of watchmaking history, Rado has built a name for itself in its quest for robust, reliable and scratch-proof materials. The Diastar, for example, made its debut in 1962 and with it, a new hardmetal case, which we know to be tungsten carbide. At launch, the spiel for the Diastar was that it was near unscratchable, meaning that the new shiny, gleaming watch that you have just spent money on will stay perfectly shiny even with years of use. Building upon this quest for ultimate scratch-resistance is the reason that most of Rado’s best-selling watches today are clad in high-tech ceramic.

The Anatom, however, was born several years after the debut of the Diastar. In 1983, the first Anatom watch was launched under the Diastar collection, as it too had an ethos of being scratchproof. The difference, however, was that the Anatom was designed to prioritise human comfort. A watch that was meant to harmoniously meld with the user’s wrists as it was worn. To achieve this, the Anatom, which got its name from the word ‘anatomical’, was designed with a curved case and a fluid metal bracelet that would hug the circumference of the human wrist.

Even these days, with the watch industry being where it is, seeing a curved case on a watch is rare. Back in the 1980s however, the curved profile on the Anatom, was considered damn near futuristic. In fact, that was this futuristic approach that gave birth to the Anatom. Taking its original inspiration from anatomical, one finds the word atomic cleverly nestled in between. The zeitgeist at the time was one of optimism, of flying cars and space travel, and so the glossy exterior and the sleek build of the watch fit right in. Even the predecessor of the Anatom was given a sci-fi-ish name, V2200. But in the end, they settled with the name Anatom.

It was not easy to achieve this curved profile back in 1983, considering that Rado was working with a hardmetal like tungsten carbide for the case. Back then, it was hard enough to mill the hardmetal into the specific wrist-hugging shape, and the technology wasn’t near ready to create the bracelet in the same hardmetal material, so Rado decided to stick with stainless steel for the bracelet. Around this time, Rado also began using synthetic sapphire crystals, which were fast becoming harder than the metals used on watch cases. Therefore, there was no more need to protect the normally fragile crystals on the watch, and if you look at the early Anatom designs, these sapphire crystals were cleverly employed as part of the case, giving it an edge-to-edge crystal design. The tricky bit here is that these sapphire crystals were practically indestructible and as hard as the case, so Rado had to develop special diamond tools (which are harder than sapphire) to mill and shape their crystals.

The measure of success for the Anatom design philosophy is well presented in the telling of its story. It began as an offshoot of the Diastar collection, and over time, the clarity and character of the name Anatom could stand on its own.

Circling back to the contemporary obsession with all things retro, the fact that you can still find vintage Anatom watches in relatively great condition is one thing, but of course, reliability and serviceability, as with all vintage watches, remain a concern. Thankfully, just recently, Rado had decided to dust off the blueprints and revive this collection. “For its recent line of scratchproof DiaStar watches, the company succeeded in creating a shape conforming to the human anatomy. The collection is known as Rado DiaStar Anatom. Nomen est Omen,” reads the early promotional material for the Anatom. The Latin term Nomen est Omen roughly translates to, the name predicts the future. And fulfilling this prophecy, if you walk into a Rado store today, more than 40 years after the birth of the Anatom, a new reference of this watch still sits gleaming behind the display glass.

FUTURE, NOW

In December of 2023, the Rado Anatom was revived. And of course, the revival brought with it all the modern updates expected from a luxury watch brand of today. At a quick glance, the most obvious update to the Anatom comes in the form of a slightly larger case size, moving from a width of 28 mm to 32.5 mm. This slightly bigger case also hides the most important update to the Anatom, which exchanges Rado’s old hardmetal construction with their modern signature, high-tech ceramic. Although the hardness of the hardmetal and high-tech ceramic can be considered quite similar, there are many other benefits to ceramic, like its lighter weight and even its hypoallergenic properties, which allow it to become even more a part of the human anatomy than ever before.

Interestingly enough, the process of making high-tech ceramics doesn’t differ greatly from how they used to make the hardmetal case. The raw form of both cases starts from a powdered material, which is pressure moulded into its desired shape before being sintered at high temperatures, transforming it into the final product. While hardmetals were limited in colours, high-tech ceramics, on the other hand, could incorporate a variety of pigments. For example, Rado’s True Round Thinline Les Couleurs™ Le Corbusier collection is a great representation of the kinds of vivid hues that can be achieved with ceramic. As of now, the Anatom is available in a stately black ceramic case and for the fans who simply love the shine of hardmetals, the Anatom is also available with the brand’s proprietary plasma high-tech ceramic material.

Although the Anatom was relaunched late in 2023, it is only this year that we have decided to put the collection on the cover of World of Watches Malaysia. And this is because, when the new Anatom debuted in 2023, it came paired with a rubber strap. The original Anatom from 1983 was paired with a bracelet, and so it was only apt that we waited for an Anatom with a matching bracelet before truly celebrating its revival. Rado’s CEO, Adrian Bosshard, made it clear that there was always meant to be a bracelet for the Anatom, but due to the complexity of making a bracelet out of ceramic, they couldn’t make it in time for the collection’s 40th anniversary. Earlier this year, however, the bracelet option finally came to Malaysia, and it changed the look of the watch completely.

What is perhaps telling about the complexity of this Anatom bracelet is the fact that even as the watch was launched in 1983, Rado couldn’t make the bracelet with the same hardmetal material as the case. Instead, they chose to combine the hardmetal case with a bracelet crafted from the trusty stainless steel. For the modern revival, however, and in the current playing field, this simply wouldn’t cut it for a luxury wristwatch. And so, Rado spent countless hours in research and development to ensure that they would be able to create a bracelet in the same high-tech ceramic material as the case.

As mentioned earlier, the process of making these high-tech ceramic components isn’t as straightforward as working with something like stainless steel or precious metals. The sintering process, in particular, complicates things as not only does it undergo incredibly high temperatures, which sometimes alter the colours of pigments, but the entire material also shrinks during sintering, so engineers have to be incredibly precise in the control of this process. The bracelet is made of numerous links that are held together by metal components. Each of these links has to be made individually, and then considering that the bracelet tapers, the links will also have to vary in size. On top of all that, there is also a plasma high-tech ceramic version of this watch and bracelet, meaning everything will have to be treated with the same plasma level of temperatures, which is around 20,000°C.

The result, however, is well worth the effort, as if you put the version with the rubber and ceramic bracelets side by side, it looks worlds apart. The glossy links with the steel or gold-coloured parts in between really add to the design aesthetics that is familiar to the Anatom. And above all, the properties of ceramic that often feel warm and comfortable on the skin are now draped luxuriously around the wrist, making it even more a part of the human anatomy than ever before.

When the Anatom debuted in 1983, quartz was the latest in cutting-edge watchmaking innovation. Today, however, we expect our luxury watches to bring something more emotional to the table. Fittingly, the revived Anatom watch comes with a mechanical movement, its oscillating balance adding a “heartbeat” to the anatomy of the Anatom. And with it, a soul. The Rado calibre R766 movement trades oscillating frequency for power reserve, beating slightly slower at 3.5 Hz but extending its power reserve to a massive 72 hours. This 3-day power reserve is the sweet spot for many enthusiasts, as if you leave your watch fully wound on a Friday night, presumably to put on your sportier option over the weekend, the watch would still be keeping time come Monday.

With the Anatom now fully revived and offering a plethora of choices, including the ceramic bracelet or rubber strap divide, and even the option of a Jubilé version which adds precious stones to a precious watch, the question we often ask is what is next? More recently, there have been summer colours added to the Anantom line with vibrant red, lime green and yellow dials that come with the rubber strap in matching colours. What would be interesting is if Rado starts taking all the beautiful hues they can achieve with the True Thinline Les Couleurs™ Le Corbusier and applies them to the retro-style design of the Anatom. For now, however, we still have a beautiful assortment of watches to choose from, the gleaming black high-tech ceramic and a personal favourite, the Anatom in plasma high-tech ceramic, as we wait for the next chapter of this retro revival story.

This article first appeard in the Summer 2025 issue of World of Watches Malaysia.

Panerai Brings a Perpetual Calendar and GMT to Their Luminor Collection

Panerai has made it abundantly clear that this year they are celebrating the Luminor. Born in the 1960s, the Luminor name came from their switch from radium lume to the non-radioactive alternative. However, in contemporary times, the Luminor is more recognised due to its other signature element, and that is, the crown guard. This unique protective device over the crown was originally designed to prevent water from seeping into the case by adding a lever-style lock over it. Let’s be honest, though, modern Panerai watches no longer require this feature, as the engineering of the case and crown has long been able to keep water out. However, it is still a fantastic piece of Panerai history to have on the watch.

The Luminor watch we are looking at today is the Luminor Perpetual Calendar GMT Platinumtech PAM01575 which, as you can probably guess from the name, takes the signature Luminor case and fills it with, in my opinion, one of the most complex complications in watchmaking – the perpetual calendar. And on top of that, it does so with a design finesse that is unlike anything else that is in Panerai’s stable at the moment. This watch moves away from the brand’s more utilitarian codes to offer a perpetual calendar watch that is more modern than historic.

The movement itself, the calibre P.4100, is not new but what is new is the transparent dial that Panerai has decided to use. This dial doesn’t quite reveal the movement from the front side as many other transparent dials seem to do, because the movement is still obscured by the day and date discs. However, this lends a more intriguing look to the watch. For example, if you look closely at the day disc, you will find that there are two sets of days. I wonder if this was an aesthetic choice or a solution to a mechanical conundrum regarding the day disc. Either way like I said, it adds a level of intrigue to the watch.

Also on the dial, looking at it closely, you will notice a few extra hands. One belongs to the GMT function and like other Panerai GMTs, this one also works on a 12-hour scale instead of the 24-hour GMT hands that we have all become accustomed to. I must say I quite like the 12 hour GMT feature as it leaves the design looking much cleaner and less cluttered. And it also helps that on the traditional small seconds subdial there is a smaller hand there to indicate whether the hour is in the AM or PM. If you’re asking, where are all the other things that a perpetual calendar usually has, like the year or the leap year indicator? Well, it is on the back.

To justify the time spent in making this mechanical beauty, Panerai has decided to clad the PAM01575 in Platinumtech material, a proprietary platinum alloy that is significantly harder and therefore more scratch-resistant than the traditional 950-Platinum that other brands use.

The Conversation: Engineering Success

Watches often evolve in unpredictable ways, especially if they were made to fulfil some kind of need or requirement. If said needs and requirements change, so too does the watch, or watches, in question. Take for example the IWC Ingenieur, which is experiencing a major revival at the moment that is very far removed from its debut 70 years ago.

That original Ingenieur watch was designed to meet the emerging challenge of navigating magnetic fields, alongside a host of other such watches. Watchmakers perceived a threat to the running of their creations from these fields, which would in fact go on to dominate our work and home environments. Hence, IWC introduced the Ingenieur with an automatic movement and an inner soft iron shell that would function as a Faraday cage. In 1955.

Even as the model went through a variety of changes, these elements remained consistent…until now that is. The editors of WOW Singapore, Malaysia and Thailand saw all the new models at Watches and Wonders Geneva this year; the Ingenieur in particular drew their attention. The collection, inspired not by the 1955 original but the 1976 Ingenieur SL imagined by the famed Gerald Genta, sparked their first discussion centred not on broad topics but on just one subject.

RC: Guys, we are at the beginning of something new: a brand-specific discussion among the editors!

AS: It is indeed a brand new day…in a manner of speaking. And, we’re also going collection specific. So, are we ready for the IWC Ingenieur of 2025?

RC: Presently, of all five collections listed on the IWC web site, “Ingenieur” is one of the two families named after a profession, with the other being “Pilot’s Watches”. And that reflects the focused nature or objective with which the watch was developed in the first place.

DG: I have a feeling that with such focused attention on one collection, things are about to get extremely nerdy…

AS: Nerdy? Funnily enough, we have an odd question to ponder: where to begin… The Ingenieur has had quite a number of lives and, as Ruckdee noted, it remains only the second such model (named for and aimed at a specific profession) in the brand’s history. Why is it a watch for engineers? Well, from what the brand says, it all comes down to the antimagnetic properties of the watch. The Ingenieur was literally engineered to face the challenges of an electronic world.

DG: It has such a fascinating back story. But let’s not forget, IWC is in Schaffhausen which is nearer to the German side of the Swiss border and you know the reputation that the Germans have for their engineering. It makes sense that way back when, IWC probably thought that hey, there are a lot of engineers around here; they need to tell time; magnetic inference is a problem; and we have a brilliant solution!

RC: Good point made there, Daniel. I first discovered IWC as a resolutely sober, white and black brand, with a heightened sense of engineering, and no obvious partnership or celebrity endorsement. Having said that, I have a confession to make. When I was much younger, I didn’t know that the very first Ingenieur was round! At the time, I thought the Ingenieur SL designed by Gerald Genta in 1976 was already the beginning of the collection. Then I discovered that I was not sufficiently educated, because the very first Ingenieur was in fact a round watch known as Ref. 666 in 1955 or exactly 70 years ago.

AS: IWC is very Teutonic, that is true, and it was a champion of tool watches. Still is, in important ways that are today most evident in both this collection and the Aquatimer. Where water-resistance is the name of the game in dive watches, IWC foresaw that mechanical watches needed protection from the magnetic fields of the electronic devices that were becoming ubiquitous in the second half of the 20th century. That is where the story from the original from the 1950s still plays a part, although I join Ruckdee in only recalling the 1976 Ingenieur SL.

DG: I wonder what it was that made the watch unsuccessful when it was launched in the late 1970s? Officially they say the design was too visionary, but I suppose there should be more factors in play here as well right? Could it have been the quartz watches that were probably gaining momentum around the same time? Or maybe even the asking price was too high? Does anybody know what the Ref. 1832 cost at the time it was made?

RC: No, I don’t know the original retail price of the Ingenieur SL. But I think I know why it is so collectible right now: not so many pieces were made! IWC’s latest information notes, and I quote, “With the modesty and sobriety of a tool watch manufacturer, IWC chose a different approach and marketed the Ingenieur SL exclusively to engineers in the years to come. However, for this target group, Genta’s design was simply too bold and too visionary. And so, between 1976 and 1983, only 598 pieces were produced and sold.”

AS: There are boons to making only a very limited number of pieces, especially to collectors. Now, aside from being a famous maker of tool watches, IWC is a brand that wants to sell a lot of pieces so it is perhaps unsurprising that the Ingenieur’s first run ended in the 1980s. However, there was clearly a tonne of unrealised potential in the collection as the brand returned it to the lineup as the mechanical watch revival got underway at the start of the 21st century. To be clear, the collection was quite respected when it came back but IWC has fiddled with the design a number of times before hitting its stride in 2023, when the first four models appeared in the current style.

RC: I was not a fan of contemporary, round Ingenieur watches when they made brief resurgences during that fiddling phase. So, I was very pleased in 2023 when IWC did what they did: formally re-establishing the collection on the aesthetic basis of the Genta-designed Ingenieur SL. The size is also good and safe at 40mm.

“When I was younger, I didn’t know that the first Ingenieur was a round watch known as Ref. 666 in 1955” said by Ruckdee Chotjinda, Editor-in-Chief, WOW Thailand.

AS: There are some characteristics that define the Ingenieur, particularly the Genta-era Ingenieur SL that Ruckdee referenced there. The integrated bracelet form is, of course, a key part of the winning formula, but so is the industrial vibe of the bezel and the dial. For the longest time, and until this year, it was also the presence of the soft-iron inner case that marked the Ingenieur; that was the Faraday cage, of a sort, that gave the watch its impressive antimagnetic credentials.

RC: I don’t know the average magnetic levels in our daily life or around specific devices, but the standard Ingenieur Automatic 40 in stainless steel with the said soft-iron inner case offers magnetic resistance to the level of 40,000 A/M, whereas the ISO standard requires a dive watch to be magnetic resistant to only 4,800 A/M. More superficially, I was thrilled to see how they brought back the “grid” dial of the Ingenieur SL. I think it gives yet another important signature to this highly technical collection of timepieces.

AS: Moving right along, after those four watches from 2023, the brand found its footing and decided to go all-in here. There are now 12 models in the Ingenieur collection, including its first-ever perpetual calendar model and an incredible ceramic model. Sizes now range from 42mm to 35mm, with that perpetual calendar model coming in at a unique 41mm.

DG: I am not at all surprised that IWC decided to add a ceramic model to its collection; the material is gaining traction in the industry and has been doing so in the last couple of years. What did surprise me, however, was IWC’s heritage with this material. The brand made the first zirconium oxide black ceramic case in 1986. And apparently there was also another Pilot’s watch in black ceramic in 1994. All of these were before my time covering watches but these days, I think IWC is investing heavily in developing ceramic materials. The firm has Ceralume, which successfully integrates Super-LumiNova® pigments into ceramic, and the collaboration it did with the German Aerospace centre introduced fibre-reinforced ceramic as a viable material. So, I think it was only natural that IWC brought its expertise with ceramic to the Ingenieur collection. And I suppose with ceramic being a non-magnetic material, this fits into the whole antimagnetic ethos of the Ingenieur.

Stylised view of the principal components of the Ingenieur Automatic 42 in black ceramic

AS: You know, people do say it is all about details in fine watchmaking, which is what IWC does these days, and the new ceramic Ingenieur gets it right. I was surprised to learn that the crown and crown guards are also in ceramic, and so is the caseback. As you know, although we did not say it properly for the record, the five screws visible on the bezel are functional, connecting the three parts of the case to each other. The Ingenieur has only featured this as a key element now, with the 1976 debut going with a different case structure, and it is important to the feel of the reimagined watch. This sort of thing is part of the reason that ceramic watches often do not have ceramic casebacks. I presume this is something IWC wanted to figure out before getting into ceramic here because Daniel is right to note the general proficiency the brand has demonstrated with ceramic (since 1986 with reference 3755 in fact but we will get to that shortly).

RC: One thing caught me by surprise, though, and that is the size of the new ceramic Ingenieur. Unlike the Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar 41 with extra indications to display, the Ingenieur Automatic 42 in ceramic is a three-hander so, at first, I didn’t know why it had to be 42mm when it could have been in the same 40mm size as the models in stainless steel and titanium. My initial guess was that it was due to complications with the case construction and ceramic parts and all. But then I looked closer and discovered that a totally different movement was used! The Ingenieur Automatic 42 in black ceramic is powered by the larger Calibre 82110, which is also visible through the tinted sapphire crystal caseback. The Ingenieur Automatic 40 in stainless steel or titanium is equipped with Calibre 32111, which belongs to a totally different IWC movement lineage, not hidden behind the closed case back.

DG: You know you still could be right. It could be due to the complications with the case construction that they have to use a different movement. Additionally, it could also be that because the ceramic is in black, they needed to use a larger case to give the watch the intended appearance on the wrist. Maybe a fully black 40mm watch would look closer to a 38mm on the wrist?

“I think it was only natural that IWC brought its expertise with ceramic to the Ingenieur collection. After all, it is a non-magnetic material”— Daniel Goh, Editor-in-Chief, World of Watches, Malaysia

RC: This is why I like chatting with you guys. You expand my perspectives! While we won’t know for sure until we ask IWC what its intentions or constraints were with regard to the ceramic Ingenieur being larger than the rest, it is cool to ponder at the possible reasons and the effects they bring. I, for example, didn’t think about the effect where a black ceramic 40mm watch has the potential to look smaller than its measured size. But I agree that, as things stand now, the current Ingenieur watches in different materials look appropriate for their respective persona. Ashok, what do you think?

AS: I like the story of the ceramic model, and how IWC had to come up with neat engineering solutions to make the case construction work. Also, the little things such as the aforementioned crown and guards – having these made in matching black ceramic is going the extra mile. You only need to imagine how specific this process is – only this model uses such components, in the entire IWC range. This kind of production fastidiousness (and ultimately, exclusivity) is what fine watchmaking is all about. If you really consider it, the case (and components) of this 42mm watch is worth an entire article, and we did toy with that idea right here before going in this direction. As for the size, I think it was the decision to use the Calibre 82110 movement that defined it, and probably some sort of consideration on minimum sizes for water-resistance and perhaps even those little components! Truth be told, integrated watches wear a bit bigger than you might expect so I would love it if there was a 40mm version but, on the other hand, some differentiation is very desirable. To finish here, I wish that the dial was also in ceramic, with this same design (i.e. the grid pattern) of course! Something to look forward to perhaps, and more realistic (maybe) than a smaller size…

DG: I second that idea for a dial in ceramic. IWC, if you are reading this…

RC: It’s not a must for me. But if they can make a ceramic dial without losing the grid pattern then I am in, otherwise I would prefer for the dial to stay as is. So what is your favourite, current model Ingenieur then? Daniel? I do like the new Ingenieur Automatic 42 in black ceramic and my wrist can take the size, but I am still partial towards the Ingenieur Automatic 40 in stainless steel with Aqua dial which I find to be quite refreshing – it is not too green and already not blue.

DG: Anyone who knows me will know that although I love the technical complexities of making a material like ceramic (pressure and fire, what’s not to like?) I think the size will be a tad bit big for my personal tastes. So, for that reason, I think the new 35mm Ingenieur is a pretty compelling release from the brand this year. And if we are talking full fantasy, how about that 35mm Ingenieur in full 18K 5N gold. How baller is that?!

AS: I do like the smaller releases here, again mainly because of that whole integrated bracelet thing. Also, great that IWC went with yet another movement for the smaller models, Calibre 47110; this does wonders for that model differentiation that I keep harping on. All too often, brands will just go with one movement in cases of multiple sizes and that irks me, as it does Ruckdee too! I think the decision to have every size and specification (the ceramic model and the perpetual calendar) in the new Ingenieur range have its own movement is a deft touch, even if it probably was not decided in this way.

“I applaud the decision to equip every size and specification in the Ingenieur range with distinct movements” — Ashok Soman, Editor-in-Chief, WOW Singapore

RC: Oh, don’t get me started on an open case back with a much smaller movement than case. We don’t have the pages for my rant. But where the Ingenieur is concerned, so far everything is proportionate and well-thought-out to me. They have regular, smaller and larger case sizes. They have steel, performance materials and noble metal. And, with the perpetual calendar being added this year, even before there is a chronograph, we can anticipate the latter next year, perhaps.

AS: I am pretty sure that we can expect more in ceramic from the Ingenieur, given the history of material innovation at IWC. Not at all a stretch to see a perpetual calendar in the mix, especially since IWC introduced ceramic to watchmaking with a perpetual calendar in 1986, although in the Da Vinci line. And the brand does have some expertise in making complicated watches in materials such as ceramic, and of course hybrids, including Ceratanium. Honestly, the Ingenieur collection is just brimming with potential on the material front. And yes, the thought of IWC introducing a chronograph with ceramic pushers did occur to me too, mostly because the Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month already has such a thing, but in Ceratanium!

DG: It is exciting, isn’t it, when a brand introduces a new collection, especially one with such a cool origin story and more importantly, with a design that can speak to contemporary tastes. The expansion of the line has already begun and I am sure if you look at IWC’s playbook, the gears are already churning for the next few releases. Predictably we will probably see line extensions for the newly launched references in the coming years but I am pretty sure that there will still be a few surprises up IWC’s sleeve. I wish IWC would do a limited-edition reissue of the original SL reference 1832 but it seems highly unlikely. Even the watch they put on Brad Pitt’s wrist for the shooting of the film – F1 – was apparently a modified version of an original watch. But, one can dream right? In any case, it is great to see the positive reception of the Ingenieur and I am definitely looking forward to covering its future.

This story was first seen as part of the World of Watches Malaysia Summer 2025 issue

The Zeitwerk Date Goes for Pink Gold

A. Lange & Söhne *Zeitwerk Date Ref. 148.033*

When A. Lange & Söhne first announced that the Zeitwerk was getting a date complication in 2019, everyone expected them to add another [date] aperture that would jump, just like the hour and minute counters. It’s the most common way for watches to convey the date, and it made sense, considering how the Zeitwerk is the ultimate ticker watch. This is, after all, the first mechanical wristwatch to display hours and minutes numerals that jump instantaneously.

Then came the questions: where would they squeeze in this new complication? Would they have to sacrifice another feature, like the power reserve indicator? Would a date display disrupt the symmetrical equilibrium of the watch?

But the engineers at A. Lange & Söhne are an ambitious lot, and they refused to compromise. To solve this, they reimagined what a date function could look like. They began by imprinting the 31 days of the month onto a glass ring that encircles the dial. A small red marker glides beneath each numeral, highlighting it in red to signify the date. This subtle act of ingenuity not only helped the Zeitwerk Date remain cohesive in its design language within the Zeitwerk family, but also preserved its visual balance and symmetry.

For those who enjoy a bit of whimsy in their watches, I implore you to imagine the red ring progressing around the dial like a loading bar for the month.

A new member

Six years later, Lange is finally giving the Zeitwerk Date a sibling—a blonde one. Previously available only in white gold, the Zeitwerk Date is making a grand re-entrance with a pink gold case. The new look is paired with a hand-stitched, dark brown alligator leather strap, which helps hammer home a warmer tone for the watch. Visually, it’s far dressier than its older sibling, aligning more closely with Lange’s classically rooted DNA, which might appeal even more to brand loyalists.

The grey dial from the first iteration remains, providing a neutral, muted backdrop that allows the radiant pink gold to stand out even more. The visual contrast between monotony and extravagance creates a serene yet elegant effect, fitting, considering the rather hefty price tag that accompanies the watch. The beauty of juxtaposition, baby.

Beyond that, the design elements remain largely unchanged. The two large apertures for the hour and minute numerals are still present, as is the date function that circles them. The horizontal time bridge continues to frame both the small seconds sub-dial at 6 o’clock and the power reserve indicator at noon, all within the same 44.2mm case dimensions.

Two pushers flank each side of the watch, one at 8 o’clock and the other at 4. The 8 o’clock pusher controls the red ring that is beneath the 31-day ring, allowing you to position it precisely. Meanwhile, the pusher at 4 o’clock adjusts the hour display independently of the movement’s switching cycles. This means you don’t have to press the pusher sixty times just to advance an hour ahead—something that would not only be very tedious, but also save the watch’s mechanisms a tremendous amount of wear. There’s also a crown at 2 o’clock, which will, of course, advance the minutes.

If it ain’t broke…

Inside the new Zeitwerk date beats the same calibre that powered its predecessor: the ol’ reliable L043.8. It’s a manual calibre that beats at a frequency of 18,000 semi-oscillations per hour, and it requires a winding roughly once every 72 hours. Having a power reserve of three days is no small feat, considering the power required for the hour and minute numerals to jump as often as they do (exactly 1,440 times a day), and as precisely as possible.

If you’re curious to learn more, we explored the mechanics of the calibre in greater detail here. But essentially, Lange’s engineers discovered that by flipping a large mainspring upside down inside the barrel, it allows the piece to be wound from the inside, generating more power and torque than a typical mainspring. Thus, it achieves a 72-hour power reserve, doubling the 36-hour capabilities of its predecessor.

All this is available for your viewing pleasure through the sapphire crystal caseback, where you’ll get to witness the 516-part calibre at work. Solarisation and engravings of the brand name can be found on various wheels and bridges, all reinforcing the idea that what you’re observing isn’t just a mechanism—it’s poetry in motion.

This article was first seen on Esquire SG.

Bigger isn’t always better as demonstrated by this new 38mm Fifty Fathoms from Blancpain

I think we wouldn’t be remiss in saying that when it comes to Blancpain their Fifty Fathoms dive watch acts almost as if a calling card for the brand. They have long argued that it was the first dive watch ever made and since its creation in 1953, by the brand’s CEO Jean-Jacques Fiechter, the design has hardly changed. And it is true that if something isn’t broken, why fix it? And so for this year in 2025, Blancpain has relaunched the Fifty Fathoms yet again, but this time in a smaller 38mm size.

From an outsider’s perspective, the simple addition of a new size is nothing quite so exciting. Still, from a watch enthusiast’s perspective, especially one who has long been eyeing the Fifty Fathoms but had slightly smaller wrists this is a momentous announcement from the brand. At 38mm, the core Fifty Fathoms collection is now complete with a large 45mm reference, a more average 42mm reference and for smaller wrists the new 38mm watch.

Although the idea of creating a smaller Fifty Fathoms watch, complete with the collection’s signature DNA may seem like a simple shrinking of the existing watch, in reality, it is hardly just that. Oftentimes the designers at Blancpain have to meticulously redesign each element of the watch including the hands and indices so it maintains the visual harmony of the original. What this translates to in terms of production is a recalibration of the many CNC (Computer Numerical Control) machines that cut and create the case, bracelet and many other components of the watch.

Inside the watch, Blancpain has installed the manufacture calibre 1150 that beats at a slower frequency of 3Hz. Although this frequency is slightly lower than the average, normally at around 4Hz, the automatic movement is then capable of a massive 100-hours of power reserve. Additionally, the movement also has a silicon balance spring that has a resistance to magnetism.

In the years that Blancpain have been making the Fifty Fathoms for the luxury watch market, they have added various materials to the collection, each speaking to a different type of collector. The stainless-steel variant will obviously remain as the core model in the Ref. 5007’s range and sits at the more affordable end of their pricing spectrum. But for the high-rollers you can even get this 38mm Fifty Fathoms in their signature grade 23 titanium for that ultra-technical, lightweight ethos or for the one that enjoys diving into investor meetings and boardrooms, there is even a version in 18K red gold.

With the advent of this smaller size, Blancpain has also taken the opportunity to create two more feminine options with mother-of-pearl dials. One comes in a powerful black colour scheme with an 18K red gold case but arguably the flashier of the two is a unique pink Fifty Fathoms that offers a matching pink bezel. Each dial will come with a dégradé effect on the mother of pearl lending it a touch more sophistication to an already very elegant watch.

Feeling Bleu? After 25 years of black and white, CHANEL's J12 finally sees in colour

The J12 is a watch designed at its very core to be ahead of its time. For one, when it was conceived back in the year 2000, it was difficult to imagine a haute couture house like CHANEL creating such a serious and technically challenging timepiece. Secondly, for a watch to debut in a material like ceramic, which until then was not widely used for watch cases due to its manufacturing complexity, was a bold statement on the part of CHANEL. Again, nowadays ceramic has been steadily gaining traction with most of the well-known watch brands having at least one reference in this scratch- and corrosionresistant, hypoallergenic material. Over the years, the ceramic J12 has slowly cemented its place as an icon not just in fashion circles but increasingly in watchmaking conversations as well. 25 years after the first J12, CHANEL is poised once again to introduce the latest evolution to this storied collection, for the first time taking the watch out of a monochromatic theme and introducing it in a brand new colour. As CHANEL puts it, “It’s not black. It’s not white. It’s Bleu.”

Perhaps one of the reasons that made the J12 so unlikely was also one of its greatest strengths. Coming from a fashion house and not a watchmaking name with a century or so of history since its founding, CHANEL was liberated from constraints while designing the watch. Its creator, the then chief designer of the brand, Jacques Hélleu, looked away from the elements familiar to fashion and instead turned his attention towards other things he loved, like automobiles and sailing. Thus, the use of a high-tech material like ceramic was chosen as opposed to the soft and feminine textile inspirations of high fashion. Today, the arrangement for CHANEL, at least for its watchmaking division, mirrors this type of independence. Yes, it is owned by the same company, but its watchmaking facilities sit separately in the cradle of Swiss watchmaking, La Chaux-de-Fonds, while its brain, is located in the heart of Paris, Place Vendôme. There the director of the CHANEL Watchmaking Creation Studio, Arnaud Chastaingt, inconspicuously gives life to all of CHANEL’s timepieces, enjoying the same freedoms of design as Hélleu once did.

ICON IN THE MAKING

Chastaingt has had an immensely important influence on the history of CHANEL watchmaking and the evidence is compelling. Since he took on the role as the director of the Watchmaking Creation Studio back in 2013, he has expanded the line of CHANEL watches beyond just the J12 and Première to include BOY·FRIEND, CODE COCO and MONSIEUR which have all since become staples of CHANEL watchmaking. On the more technical side, the facilities at La Chaux-de-Fonds have, under Chastaingt’s direction, created five in-house calibres bringing to life creations such as the MONSIEUR in 2016 with a jumping hour and retrograde minutes indicator, two skeleton calibres for the Première Camélia Skeleton and BOY.FRIEND Skeleton both of which have taken home respective awards from the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG).

Within the J12 collection, Chastaingt was the maestro of its evolution. In 2019 he orchestrated a complete redesign of the iconic J12. The changes were slight: a few millimetres more for the dial opening, slimmer typography, a refined bezel design, and a slimmer crown, but compared to the daunting prospect of redesigning such a recognizable icon, these changes were momentous in effect. Finally, the J12 was updated for contemporary tastes.

Arnaud Chastaingt, Director of the CHANEL Watchmaking Creation Studio

Following the aesthetic redesign there was also a push for the J12 to become more “serious” in the eyes of modern horology enthusiasts. First, they had to do away with cookie-cutter movements and instead assemble a true manufacture movement, the Caliber 12.1, through a collaboration and eventual investment into Kenissi. Then it was the introduction of complications into the collection like the in-house Calibre 5 which gave the J12 its first tourbillon. Before that, it was Calibre 3.1, an extremely skeletonised movement to complement the transparent nature of the sapphire J12 X-Ray. Today, CHANEL is positioned as a serious player in the current luxury watch industry. Through its partnership with Kenissi, they have even updated the smaller, 33 mm J12 watch with a manufacture movement, when many other of its contemporaries still rely on quartz movements at that size. Then there is the investment, acquiring stakes in not just Kenissi but also important pillars in independent watchmaking like MB&F.

BLEU, THE NEW BLACK

25 years is a long time to stay relevant, especially if one does not have hundreds of years of history to fall back on. Thus, for CHANEL, this year they have decided to unveil what can be considered one of the most fundamental changes to the J12 collection since it was created back in the year 2000. Ever since its inception, the watch has taken on a glossy black exterior. This was the original icon. In 2003 a completely white ceramic version of the J12 watch was introduced and this black and white monochromatic configuration was pretty much how it stayed throughout the years regardless of its function, movement and design inspiration. This year, for the very first time the J12 collection introduces colour. The choice of hue is blue, or more specifically, Bleu a colour exclusive to CHANEL.

We have been writing about ceramic for quite some time now because, as we have earlier established, it is currently quite a trendy material. And as simple as the introduction of a new ceramic colour may seem, the manufacturing process of the material makes it far more complex. Especially if, like CHANEL, there is a specific hue of Bleu that needs to be achieved.

“The duality of black and white is obviously an essential code in CHANEL’s aesthetic vocabulary. But colour has always been omnipresent in CHANEL creations. Blue has always been part of the House’s colours, imprinting its vibrations in fashion, fragrances or jewellery, but it is revealed today in a unique hue for CHANEL watchmaking. In optics, black and white are not considered as colours, they are shades. Black is the absence of colour and light. As such, I dreamed of giving a colour to black, illuminating it with blue. I dreamed of a blue with a rigorous elegance, not quite black and not quite blue. Five years of development were required to obtain this ceramic colour and the ultimate choice of this shade of blue was sparked by emotion.” Chastaingt explains.

Five years to create this particular shade of Bleu is not long if you consider the process of making ceramic. Unlike traditional cases in metal alloys, which are usually forged into solid tubes before being cut and milled into specific shapes, ceramic components are pressure moulded into their final form. Then, the entire component has to go through a sintering process which means it is heated at extreme temperatures so the material can harden into the finished product. To bring colour to ceramics, pigments are usually added to the mixture before being injected into the mould. The heat oftentimes alters the colour of the pigments so depending on how high the temperature goes, how long it stays at that level and perhaps even how fast the temperature drops along with how long it is cooled can affect the exact shade of the final product.

It is worth noting too that the combination of parameters during the sintering process can also affect the integrity of the ceramic meaning that there are constraints to how much the engineer can alter in the pursuit of a specific colour. An added layer of complexity to this process is also due to the J12 having a fully ceramic bracelet. There is a reason why it has taken most other brands so long to be able to offer ceramic bracelets. Unlike the case of the watch which is usually in a fairly large block, the bracelet is made of tiny little components that are assembled together. Smaller components mean less surface area and this could also affect the sintering process and, in effect, alter the colour of the end product. So for this, the engineer then has to rework the formula and retweak the parameters to ensure that in the end, both the bracelet and case match each other perfectly.

The CHANEL J12 Bleu 28mm Sapphires replaces the ceramic center link with a row of baguette cut sapphires

If you are looking intently at the images thinking why does a simple colour change give this J12 such a drastically different look, it is because that is not the only ‘first’ for this new J12 bleu. Since its creation, the J12 has always had a glossy finish and this is the first collection to offer the J12 with a matte tone. This finish along with this darker shade of bleu really gives the J12 a completely distinguished look and feel. It is right that CHANEL insists the J12 Bleu is not black or white.

It is really impressive how on the surface all the codes of the J12 are visible in plain sight but together with the Bleu and the matte textures the collection takes on an entirely different demeanour. This could very well expand the clientele of the J12 to a whole new segment of watch enthusiasts, one which perhaps felt that the glossy black and white was a tad too elegant and required something a little sportier and more dynamic.

SHADES OF BLEU

This is not to say that the new Bleu can’t be dressed up to be elegant or sophisticated. The beauty of debuting a new colour in such a well-established collection like the J12 is that they have ample room to fan out. The new Bleu encompasses eight J12 watches. Where the standard 38mm J12 with the matte Bleu ceramic exudes a more dressed down, sporty charm, Something like the J12 Sapphire indices, like the one we put on the cover of this issue, or even better yet, the J12 with the fully paved sapphire bezel will look right at home at a gala dinner. The use of sapphires really offers a natural fit with the J12 Bleu collection and because the Bleu colour surrounding the sapphires is of a darker shade, the precious stone itself takes on this more subtle gleam.

The CHANEL J12 Bleu Diamond Tourbillon watch is set with approximately 4 carats of baguette-cut sapphires and a 0.16 carat brilliant-cut diamond on the tourbillon

The availability of both the 38 and 33mm sizes in Bleu ceramic with or without the precious stones means that there is ample choice depending on wrist size. Although traditionally 33mm was marked as a ladies’ size, one could argue that these days it wouldn’t be remiss to see a man, maybe with a smaller wrist, rock a 33mm watch with the same confidence. This brings back the J12 to its original ethos where it was designed to be a unisex timepiece, unconstrained by traditional gender rules. And of course, with each iteration having its own manufacture movement – Caliber 12.1 and Caliber 12.2 – the only real difference is which size fits better. And with both these movements Chronometer certified by the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (COSC), they always run within a deviation of -4/+6 seconds daily.

On the top end of the J12 Bleu spectrum, sits the J12 Bleu Diamond Tourbillon watch. The J12 Tourbillon with the Calibre 5 movement always had this gigantic diamond sitting on the tourbillon cage, mesmerizing the wearer as it gracefully rotates with the spinning of the tourbillon complication. However, with the J12 Bleu, the contrast that this 65-facet solitaire diamond offers with the darker Bleu, and even the 34 baguette-cut sapphires set on the bezel, makes it look like a beacon in a sea of navy.

Lastly, although it is not made with ceramic, the J12 Bleu X-Ray is worth mentioning. Because of its transparent nature, the blue of the J12 finally allows light to penetrate its material resulting in a new shade of blue, inspired by the colours of the sea and the sky on a clear day. The case and bracelet for this masterpiece took over 1,600 hours of work meticulously sculpted from a single block of synthetic sapphire. This material is another brilliant one for watchmaking, one with its own set of wonders and complexities. So much so, that perhaps it should be a story left for another day.

With a sapphire case, light penetrates almost every component of the CHANEL J12 Bleu X-Ray watch giving it a decidedly different hue as compared to the rest in the J12 Bleu collection

The J12 Bleu represents a grand step forward for a collection that has essentially remained steadfast in its demeanour for the last 25 years. Now that we finally see the J12 in colour, it opens up the possibilities for what comes next. We have seen some pink utilised in the collection, but this was achieved through the use of precious stones. Do we finally see a pink ceramic J12 soon? Or does this open up the J12 to even more of the brand’s emblematic colours? Don’t hold your breath, however, because if it took five years to perfect the new Bleu, who knows when the next colour will arrive. As Voltaire once said, “Perfection is attained by slow degrees; it requires the hand of time.”

Sincere Fine Watches Unveils Jacob & Co. in Malaysia with “The World Is Yours” Exhibition

A new era of haute horlogerie unfolds in Malaysia as Sincere Fine Watches welcomes Jacob & Co., a Maison synonymous with audacious creativity and technical brilliance. To celebrate this prestigious partnership, the brand debuted The World Is Yours exhibition in Pavilion Kuala Lumpur, offering collectors and connoisseurs a rare encounter with Jacob & Co.’s most extraordinary timepieces. Unveiled during an intimate cocktail soirée on 23rd May 2025, the exhibition is a visual symphony of high watchmaking and avant-garde artistry. The World Is Yours runs until 15th June 2025, inviting guests to immerse themselves in horology at its most daring and opulent.

At the heart of the showcase lies the Astronomia Revolution Four-Axis Tourbillon, a mesmerizing choreography of movement and precision that challenges the very notion of timekeeping. A world-first high complication, this symphony of mechanical engineering innovation achieves this feat by equipping the watch with a three-axis tourbillon. Then, as the entire tourbillon cage is rotating around the dial, this adds a fourth axis to its rotation thus making it the first ever four-axis tourbillon. Additionally, For those captivated by the synergy of haute horlogerie and high jewellery, the exhibition presents masterpieces adorned with scintillating gemstones, including the Bugatti Chiron Tourbillon Baguette, Brilliant Baguette Rainbow, Caviar Tourbillon, Fleurs de Jardin, and Mystery Tourbillon. Each creation is a testament to Jacob & Co.'s ability to transcend convention, crafting horological works that are as opulent as they are technically formidable.

Amplifying the experience, Jacob & Co.’s Lead Watchmaker, Mr. Bahman Tagharrobi, engaged personally with guests, offering a glimpse into the Maison’s mechanical mastery. His insights into the visionary engineering and avant-garde spirit behind Jacob & Co.’s signature timepieces deepened appreciation among collectors and enthusiasts alike.

Mr. Bahman Tagharrobi, Lead Watchmaker, Jacob & Co.

“Sincere Fine Watches Malaysia is proud to onboard Jacob & Co., a distinguished Maison now represented across the entire Sincere retail network. Known for its bold design and technical ingenuity, Jacob & Co. brings a striking dimension to our horological offering at SHH Pavilion Kuala Lumpur,” says Mr Ong Ban, CEO of Sincere Watch Limited. Jacob & Co. timepieces are now available in Malaysia exclusively at SHH Pavilion Kuala Lumpur.