For our first visit outside Switzerland this issue, and the first one in Legacy overall, we will take a moment to address some behind-the-scenes work. In an issue like this one, where a multitude of manufacturer visits are arrayed before you, dear reader, our goal is to make it all as engaging as possible. Normally, we do not worry about how one story follows the next, as long as there is a standard. For example, the simplest thing is to go with alphabetical order. If you have gotten this far, then you already know we have not done this. What we have done is separated the Swiss brands from the others, although in practice there is nothing to set them apart in terms of quality. Of course, this is not to say that Grand Seiko and A. Lange & Söhne are at all the same, any more than all manufactures are the same. For this reason, this seems as good a place to pause and take stock as any.

To begin with, it will not have escaped your attention that all but one of these stories is written by me. In itself, that elevates the risk that each manufacture story would suffer from a certain sense of ‘sameness,’ and this is not what we want for Time Stamps. As noted previously, we abandoned any idea of standardising this series of articles, just as a practical matter. Far better that each story stand out for its own virtues, whatever the deficiencies of the writer. In that sense, the biggest takeaway from the Glashütte manufacture of A. Lange & Söhne is that it embodies the spirit of an entire watchmaking region and philosophy.

Watchmakers here probably studied at least part of their craft here, if not all of it. Unlike the Swiss, German and Japanese brands have to train their own people, without the benefit of an entire ecosystem. Production Director Tino Bobe never fails to remind us that A. Lange & Söhne requires skill levels that are simply impossible to find, outside Switzerland, and thus is obliged to run extensive apprenticeship programmes. On this particular visit, we got to meet many of the young people who make up the core of the watchmaking team here, besides the usual familiar faces, including Arnd Einhorn, Head of Global Corporate Communication.

From Scratch

Even a well-visited and documented site can reveal new things as we discovered at the one manufacture where we did not see CNC machines. They very much did exist, in the basement, but there are a few watchmaking firms where no one expects to see such contemporary machinery. They are just as important here as anywhere, given that A. Lange & Söhne typically produces new calibres for every new case and certainly for every new family. The manufacture has delivered no less than 71 calibres since it was reestablished in 1990, and this level of creation, shall we say, requires precision engineering for quality assurance. Remember once again that every one of these calibres, especially unique watch families such as the Zeitwerk, has to be built-up from scratch, and that includes developing the skills to make them. Impressively, this covers both the skills and know-how needed to make hairsprings in-house.

In a lot of ways, this was the definitive manufacture that helped shape the structure of every story in Time Stamps, as well as the Conversation on the very subject of manufactures. This tour, rather different in form than those organized in the Before Times, takes us all through double assembly (the Lange 1); complications (Datograph Up/Down); and Zeitwerk (time-only). While previous tours have included sessions on grand complications and engraving, this time we have a hands-on session with an attempt at engraving a balance cock. While we did not see or hear about the Odysseus this time, we did learn that the team that works on the base Odysseus also works on the Lange 1. Product Development Director Anthony de Haas notes that to make more Odysseus watches, A. Lange & Söhne would have to make fewer Lange 1 pieces. He is adamant that one collection will not suffer for the sake of another. In no small measure, de Haas and the watchmakers here, with their cheerful yet sometimes cheeky takes on their work, convinced this writer that every manufacture story in this issue had to be different.

Despite this commitment to variation, we note for the record that the Glashütte manufacture is still in much the same state as it was in 2019, which is to say that no new buildings have been added. There are still two wings – the former home of founder Ferdinand Adolph Lange and his original production building, and then a much newer facility just a short walk away. The historical building houses offices, welcomes guests, and is also where the new watchmakers train – each annual batch of aspiring watchmakers numbers roughly 20.

German Silver

Most of the watchmaking action takes place in the contemporary building that was opened in 2015, and this is also where we spent most of our time. It is a multi-winged facility that covers roughly 5,400 sqm, which we have covered previously when it first opened and in our stories on sustainability in watchmaking because the entire production facility is carbon-neutral. This is largely thanks to geothermal energy, and demonstrates remarkable foresight on the part of the brand and its owner, Richemont.

Foresight was also important in the decision to use double-assembly at A. Lange & Söhne. The Glashütte watchmaker is perhaps most famous for this process, with even its advertising leaning into it. Of course, de Haas is sanguine about the realities of double-assembly, telling us that A. Lange & Söhne is certainly not the only brand to use this process and that using it is a matter of practicality rather than of storytelling. “We tried doing single assembly and it was a disaster,” said de Haas. “In fact, it made us slower rather than faster.” This comes down to A. Lange & Söhne’s decision to use German silver for its plates and bridges. This material is notoriously prone to oxidation and thus must be handled carefully. At the Lange 1 second assembly demonstration, we learned that some components, such as the screws, are actually replaced at this stage; the second assembly is where the blued steel screws go in, with the temporary screws used in the first stage recycled.

Finishing is a deeply important part of the A. Lange & Söhne experience and it might surprise you to learn that some decorative steps are left till until the second assembly after the calibre is disassembled and all parts are cleaned (in an ultrasonic bath). The signature three-quarter plate of the Lange 1 – a Glashütte signature that one finds in virtually all the calibres at A. Lange & Söhne – get the Glashütte stripes applied only at the second assembly stage. Again, this is necessitated by the brand’s use of German silver, which de Haas, Bobe, and others will never ditch because of its luster and character.

Visceral Experience

The watchmaking lessons continued with demonstrations and explanations of complications, where we saw the relatively simple Datograph Up/ Down. Nevertheless, the information on the inner workings of the chronograph all made their way into our giant (and ongoing) chronograph explainer series. If there is one chronograph that we would have liked to get under the microscope here (literally, as you can see) it would have to be the Odysseus Chronograph, simply because we get a lot of questions about this watch. It was not to be on this occasion but seeing the workings of a lateral clutch chronograph up close, with just the movement, is revelation enough.

Space is a premium in these stories, and every word now is taking away from the images we got on this tour. A. Lange & Söhne was one of three manufacturers that had a photographer accompany us, hence you see me and Ruckdee in some of these shots, but I digress. Our last theoretical lesson was with the Zeitwerk department, where we have learned some impressive information – some of which we are unable to share. Nevertheless, if you do have a chance to visit the manufacturer, do listen to what the production people themselves have to say. It is both revelatory and also heartening, which might surprise some of you, dear readers.

As usual, the Zeitwerk workshop featured more explanations and a visceral experience too since visitors are given the chance to feel the now-legendary mainspring of the movement. For the record, this is the most powerful mainspring in the A. Lange & Söhne assortment – yes the Lange 31 has the longest power reserve but it is also the longest spring. For the Zeitwerk, the spring is the strongest of all. A manufacture visit is probably the only time you will ever see the springs in this state, including the regulating organs of the constant force system.

Hands-On

Of course, it would not be a manufacturing visit at A. Lange & Söhne without something hands-on, which is what we got with an afternoon with the engravers. This is not my favourite activity, which is a necessary fourth-wall break here, as I have done this a number of times and have not improved; movement assembly though, I have noticed an improvement. Here is what I can tell you about this craft: it takes a steady hand that can apply a degree of consistent force. The engraver’s tools look pretty much alike, with a wicked-looking steel tip attached to a bulbous wooden handle that is meant to sit in the palm of your hand. You apply force with your hand and provide a measure of stability with your thumb and finger. You can just about make this out in the image here.

While such activities are not really meant to teach much of anything, they do offer a sense of the skill of the craftsperson. Obviously, the young chap who was leading us was both serious about his work, yet quite carefree – there was no stress tension anywhere on his person, except perhaps when addressing a room filled with grumpy amateurs. Importantly, the engraving session reflects how a balance cock would really be engraved. It is done by hand, with the part secured in a clamp, just as you see. Imagine what happens when you etch away too much material and this will lend some additional heft to the task.

Watchmaking is indeed weighty, as A. Lange & Söhne demonstrates with each of its watches, not only to those who have seen the work up close. While human beings are not cutting out the balance cocks from blocks of metal (a task better left to precision instruments) but only humans can add beauty to a piece of metal. We continue to hope that watch enthusiasts will never lose sight of the fact that such efforts are made for all of us. We are the only ones who care enough to notice.

This article first appeared on WOW’s Legacy 2024 issue.

For more on the latest in watch reads, click here.

When you are racing across the open water at speeds closing in on 50 knots (just under 100kmh), you feel the crest of every wave as your vessel tries to cut through them. The sea responds to such aggressive moves by trying to shake you off, literally. By you, we mean to say anyone aboard the offending speedboat; if you are not strapped into a seat or holding on for dear life, you will be lifted off your feet and dumped overboard. Holding on is exactly what I am doing as the Luna Rossa speedboat we are aboard attempts to demonstrate the speeds that the Luna Rossa foiling monohull achieves.

Of course, the Luna Rossa Prada Pirelli team tells us that experiencing stomach-churning speeds on a powered vessel cannot really compare with what it feels like to sail aboard a foiling monohull. For one thing, even at the speeds we manage here off the coast of Cagliari, Italy, we would still be trailing behind the AC75 racing yacht that Luna Rossa will be fielding in the 37th America’s Cup 2024. Yes, speedboats can be outpaced by five-tonne sailing yachts, and – for some context – that is like saying a mechanical watch could be more precise than a quartz watch. This, of course, is a segue because we are here at the Luna Rossa Base in Sardinia at the invitation of Panerai; the Swiss-made Italian watch brand is an official Luna Rossa sponsor.

Now, before you go accusing us of having had too much Franciacorta – not to mince words about it – besides having our brains baked by the Sardinian sun, you should know that the AC75 monohulls have been known to achieve speeds in excess of 50 knots. Google it. In any case, the America’s Cup represents peak sailing, both from the perspective of sailing the monohulls and engineering them. The legendary regatta is the Formula 1 of the sailing world and has been since before the motorcar was even a gleam in Karl Benz’s eye. Like the development of the automobile, the America’s Cup has quite a rich narrative and so we give it its own section. While the contemporary reality of sailing is far removed from its roots, some context is still useful. Just so you know, the America’s Cup is the world’s oldest sporting competition of any kind, with the first having taken place in 1851.

Above The Waves

If you are in the mood to have your mind boggled by some sailing yacht facts, here is the low-down on the standard monohull hydrofoil that will be used in the coming America’s Cup. The AC75 (or America’s Cup 75 footer) is also the basis of the prototype that Luna Rossa is using, but more on that in due course. It helps to first know what in the world a hydrofoil monohull sailing yacht is, and how it manages to just glide above the waves. The simple answer is that there are wings called hydrofoils attached to the hull, left and right, and these do what wings normally do. The tips or ends of these two wings and a rudder are the only elements that are in contact with the water when the yacht is at speed, making it look for all the world like it is flying across the waves. Such a vessel should easily move at twice the prevailing wind speed, and might even go faster. This is difficult to grasp because the yacht is wind-powered after all, but it is what happens. Here is what we have been able to glean from official sources on the technical details: the aforementioned wings are canting ballasted T-wing hydrofoils mounted on the port and starboard topside longitudinal drums; there is a centerline T-wing rudder, and no keel (source: Wikipedia).

All of the above is certainly standard but the America’s Cup race did not start using the hydrofoil design until 2017, and the monohull variant dates from just two years ago (2021). Team Luna Rossa itself is working on a prototype, LEQ 12, with the following publicly declared specifications:

Hull Length <12m
Mast Height +/- 18 m
Weight (Unscrewed) 2.1 tonnes
Crew 4+2
Top Speed 45+ knots

This puts the LEQ 12 at an apparent disadvantage as far as top speeds go because the AC75 has been clocked at speeds beyond 50 knots. Of course, that is straight line speed and the thing about sailing boats is how they turn. Again, perhaps counterintuitively, sailing vessels can and do sail into the wind, and have been doing so since some clever sailor somewhere figured out how to angle the sails just right. On that note, consider that the Luna Rossa team considers itself pretty clever too since it opted to create its own boat from scratch to challenge team New Zealand, the defender of the America’s Cup. The 10,000 sqm Cagliari base camp is where Luna Rossa is doing most of its development work, which is not inconsiderable; there is also a 4,000 sqm site in Barcelona, Spain, which is where the AC75 Challenger Selection Series begins next year. In fact, Luna Rossa was one of the teams that developed the aforementioned AC75 foiling monohull standard.

America's Cup History

Auld Mug

Given that it predates the first Olympic Games by 45 years, the America’s Cup is really the world’s oldest international sporting event; the first race was held in 1851 while the Summer Olympics began in 1896. It was originally a showdown between two yacht clubs or organisations in Great Britain and the United States, and what we call the America’s Cup today is named for the schooner that won the first race in 1851, the America.

The first defence of the America’s Cup only took place in 1870, by which time the New York Yacht Club, which was the steward of the Cup, was already under one of the most famous of the competition’s rules: the holder of the America’s Cup is obliged to defend its right to steward Auld Mug (as it was originally called) should any qualifying club issue a challenge. This remains the case to this day, which is why the America’s Cup champion is called the Defender, while its rival is called the Challenger of Record. Until 1967, there was only one Challenger but from 1970, multiple clubs issued qualifying challenges. This was the beginning of the Challenger Selection Series, where all America’s Cup challengers competed until one victor emerged as the Challenger of Record to take on the Defender.

The race between the Challenger and Defender has evolved over time too, but the affair is still relatively stately, with the Defender and Challenger agreeing to terms prior to every challenge.

Panerai Luna Rossa

Riding The Wind

Although watch collectors will be much more familiar with Panerai as the military secret that equipped Italian navy divers with precision instruments than anything else, the contemporary Panerai watchmaking brand has been associated with all manner of marine activities for the better part of this century. Since 2017, Panerai has created wristwatches with the sorts of materials that America’s Cup teams were experimenting with. One might even say that Panerai’s penchant for material innovation makes it an ideal partner for a racing team such as Luna Rossa, which is precisely how team Luna Rossa describes the watchmaker.

Of course, Panerai recognises its own virtues in exploring new frontiers in watchmaking, as Ficarelli told us, citing just the example of PAM01039. The brand knows to maximise on the emotional qualities of being innovative, which points to a certain spirit of boldness. Here, we enter the realm of character, as Panerai connects the dots between past and present, and thus hopes to build bridges with community of watch lovers. “Storytelling is pivotal in cementing Panerai’s legitimacy, intertwining its deep-seated maritime roots with its modern identity,” said Ficarelli. “By chronicling its journey from creating robust instruments for the Italian Navy to embracing the adrenaline of performance boating, Panerai underscores its heritage and authenticity. Each watch, steeped in historical value and innovative prowess, symbolises a continuity of tradition and a forward-looking vision, fortifying the brand’s connection with enthusiasts who value both the legacy and the ongoing maritime saga.”

Panerai had a dedicated Luna Rossa series of watches than spans a number of ranges, including the Submersible (although the 1309 is currently unavailable). Panerai watches are typically in-demand so availability of Luna Rossa watches should be monitored closely. Currently, our pick includes the Luminor Luna Rossa Chrono Carbotech PAM01519 and the Luminor Luna Rossa Quaranta BiTempo PAM01404. The impressively named latter watch is especially notable for its automatic P.900 GMT calibre, which has a three- day power reserve. The chronograph is powered by calibre P.9200 and is currently the only available Luna Rossa watch cases in Carbotech. This is important for this watch because it is a 44mm whopper. The GMT model is a more reasonable 40mm watch in steel. There are also two Luminor Due references worth taking note of: PAM 01378 and PAM 01381.

Just as Formula 1 is an expensive sport, so too is the business of the America’s Cup, with estimates on operating the teams running up to US$200 million for each competitive run. This is evident in the Luna Rossa base camp, where there are at least two simulators, two prototypes (a slightly scaled-down model that we saw and another full-size model that takes to the waves), in-house manufacturing capabilities, and engineers and technicians of many stripes all working together to develop the LEQ 12 that will eventually be the Luna Rossa racing yacht. In total, there are approximately 118 people on the distinctly Italian team, including Skipper and Team Director Max Sirena and Circolo Della Vela Sicilia President Patrizio Bertelli. It breaks down as follows:

Sailing Team 24
Shore Team 34
Communications / Public Relations 5
Services / Administration 17
Design Team 34

One quick way to understand team Luna Rossa Prada Pirelli is to look at the tale in terms of figures. Here is what the fact sheet says about the team:

America’s Cup Participation (Including The Coming Season) 6
(2000, 2003, 2007, 2013, 2021, 2024)
Appearances At Challenger Selection Series Finals 4
(2000, 2007, 2013, 2021)
Challenger Selection Series Won 2
(2000 Louis Vuitton Cup; 2021 Prada Cup)
Challenger Of Record Success 2 (2003, 2021)
Overall America’s Cup Yachts Built Since 1997 9

If there is one Panerai watch that embodies the story here, it must be the Submersible Luna Rossa PAM01039. Panerai Chief Marketing Officer Alessandro Ficarelli explains: “(The watch) stands out due to its use of innovative materials like Carbotech (a specially developed material used by the brand), representing the brand’s adventurous spirit and its watchmaking expertise. Moreover, its aesthetic intertwines sporty resilience with elegance, including details like the incorporation of actual sail material, which symbolises a forward-thinking vision that aligns with Panerai’s maritime legacy and its future aspirations."

Those aspirations are on show on this visit to Sardinia, which was actually part of Panerai’s now-famous experiences. The Luna Rossa vessel itself might be a very expensive closely-held secret that amateurs have no business messing with, but there are all manner of maritime activities that can be associated with the competitive team’s preparations. Popular on this particular occasion was water-skiing but Panerai also went the distance with a surfing experience with the brand’s ambassador, surfing champion Leonardo Fioravanti. Of course, everything will pay off nicely for Panerai should Luna Rossa be on top form during the America’s Cup. First though, whether the Luna Rossa team will become the Challenger of Record in 2024 will be determined when the season begins in Barcelona.

This article first appeared on WOW’s Festive 2024 issue.

For more on the latest in watch reads, click here.

Arguably, buying a watch has always been a journey of discovery, but when it comes to exploring an entirely new brand, it becomes a literal opening up of an undiscovered country. If you are a Joy Division fan, you might even think of Unknown Pleasures realised. Even if one is not so poetically inclined, getting into a new name in watchmaking is equal parts trepidation and transcendence. This is where I find myself now, with the Christopher Ward C1 Bel Canto, a watch I failed to buy on its launch last year.

Those of you who may have read this very section last year might recall the heavy presence of this watch, which came to represent all my failed attempts to buy a variety of popular watch models, from mainstream brands to independents. Trust me when I say there have been many, only the most famous of which graces the opening section of this recurring missive. It is no exaggeration though to say that Christopher Ward changed everything and not just for me. It did so in a way that put enthusiasts and collectors first, and I believe is what makes it particularly worthy of the Petite Aiguille at the GPHG in 2023. It is for this reason, aside from the purchase decision of course, that I decided to push out this story.

To get things off on the right foot though, I must note that I took possession of my Bel Canto, when this issue was being sent to the printer, and this sentence was part of a running change. It was meant to arrive in November, which would have given me just enough wiggle room to shoot the actual piece. That date turned into December and, well, you know the rest. However, while I continue to be against the practice of making people wait for an indeterminate period of time for a choice timekeeper, I do understand that some waiting is necessary. If nothing else, waiting gives you the chance to change your mind and – to be completely honest – you should definitely do that if your doubts cast too large a shadow. There are few things worse than buyer’s remorse over what amounts to a discretionary purchase of an object that is meant to make you feel good about yourself.

Brand Equity

So, before even getting to the watch in question, the brand must be addressed. Swiss Made is absolutely necessary for some, and that is perfectly fine. Despite being British, Christopher Ward fulfils this; the watches are certainly conceived and designed in the UK though. A. Lange & Söhne and Seiko probably have something to say about this sort of thing, and with good reason. Reasons even but then again, even Glashütte brands do use Swiss suppliers, and the Swiss themselves have suppliers outside the EU. I am of the Tony de Haas school of thought here, in the sense that I do not care a whit about who made the screws.

Despite being a recent arrival in watchmaking, Christopher Ward has fulfilled what I consider to be a reasonable grace period, from its inception in 2004, to be taken seriously. It now fits properly into the constellation of brands I regularly look at when considering a new watch. Of course, the price and nature of the Bel Canto ultimately convinced me to push Christopher Ward ahead of many brands whose watches I have wanted for decades, in some cases (see the second the watch on the list for an idea of why that might be). Although I am about to spend a little time extolling the virtues of the brand, I have only been properly aware of it (beyond a vague notion that it exists) since 2017, to my great shame.

Now, this story does not get into specifics about the C1 Bel Canto – that will have to wait for another time, preferably when the watch is actually here and I have images of it as well as a report of the wearing experience. Instead, I want to focus on the (ongoing) acquisition itself. Christopher Ward discovered it had a hit of unparalleled proportions with this watch, although whether that was before or after Watchfinder & Co and Swiss Watch Gang talked up the model is uncertain. Brand representatives have said that they would have had second thoughts had they known how challenging such a watch would have been, and how much demand they had to satisfy. Honestly, though, what did Christopher Ward expect would happen when it offered a chiming watch for approximately USD 5,000? It is certainly the most handsome hour-striker at its price point, and arguably superior to many other more expensive tickers.

No Issue Reissue

What made a consequential difference to me here was how Christopher Ward handled the mad scramble for the original C1 Bel Canto. It would have been all too easy for the watchmakers to have patted themselves on the back for a job well done with the watch, thanked everyone who bought the watch and expressed consternation that so many had been disappointed. That could have been all there was to it, but not for Christopher Ward.

With orders closed for that now-famous watch, the brand bothered to go through the list of people who tried and failed to buy it. It then came up with a process for all of us to find a little satisfaction – the second run of the C1 Bel Canto in the colours you can see on the brand’s website. Crucially, this was far in advance of any news of a renewed run for the Bel Canto, and all the failed buyers of the original watch were taken through a process to confirm our interest, and subsequently to order the version we wanted. This was not a wait-list, strictly speaking, because everyone paid a deposit; this process is now precisely how orders for all future Bel Canto watches are handled on the website.

That Christopher Ward reached out to me, I found deeply impressive. Of the many pieces I expressed an interest in, the attention of both brands and dealers have been, shall we say, tenuous. When demand is plentiful, this is unsurprising but I must dutifully report to those of you knew to this hobby that it was like this even 10 years ago (with some caveats, as noted below). Receiving an email, automated though it appeared to be, from Christopher Ward noting my interest in the Bel Canto and then moving from there in a clear and structured manner was very notable. Just knowing that they wanted to keep the connection going was refreshing and reminiscent of how authorised dealers used to treat people.

Online First

A pioneer in the online space back in 2005, Christopher Ward knows a thing or two about how to keep people interested in its story – without the luxury of physical contact. In the case of the Bel Canto, this took the form of a series of six staggered emails that explained a variety of production details relating to how the watch is made. Aside from being extremely informative, especially if you like to nerd out as I obviously do, these emails served as tactical instruments. The last one was meant to mark the imminent arrival of the watch, and now I shall see how closely the watch tracks, especially since I know that the new watches have made their way to collectors in a variety of countries. On a final note on buying watches online, the C1 Bel Canto is my first significant online watch purchase (believe it or not) and paying for this – even if it was only a deposit – then just twiddling my thumbs while waiting indefinitely could have been anxiety-inducing. The consistent updates and production updates besides went a long way towards avoiding this...well, until now that is.

As some of you no doubt are curious about, the C1 Bel Canto does pop up occasionally, and very unreliably, on resale platforms. If you believe the listings, if you want to skip the wait then you will have to pay an unhealthy premium. For a watch still in production and available via the brand at a standard price, this is egregious – it might just be trolls and scammers because however amazing the unrivalled Bel Canto might be, it cannot compete with major brand offerings.

Now, by dint of some luck, I do know at least one other person who is waiting for his Bel Canto watch. I had no idea that he too had tried to buy the original and had fallen short but we did compare notes once he saw the story in last year’s Many More Hands story. No doubt you will see the photographic evidence on Instagram when we both receive our watches. Strangely enough, I apparently know yet another person who is also on standby while he awaits his watch. If nothing else, the fact that Christopher Ward has managed what amounts to a reissue so effectively is amazing. For me, all that remains is managing the waiting game.

Vacheron Constantin Overseas 41mm

Unlike the C1 Bel Canto, the Vacheron Constantin Overseas has been a constant companion in my dreams for years. I trust I need not repeat any refrains about Vacheron Constantin’s long and storied past to explain this but the choice of the Overseas itself is a bit of a personal idiosyncrasy. Amidst the madness surrounding luxury sports watches in recent years, I had to strongly consider how to proceed. In other words, I needed to decide if I wanted in on the action. As I have explained over the years in the pages of this magazine, I feel the ascendance of the sports watch is about as irreversible as the big watch trend. Thus, if you want one of the big standard bearers, you need to already be in good standing...and be willing to compete with speculators. As far as the Overseas goes, I might selfishly suggest to the alternative asset guys and flippers that they are barking up the wrong tree. Properly speaking, this is because the Overseas is really in its own odd little space.

While I would argue that the love for Gerald Genta-designed watches is properly separate from an appreciation of the luxury sports watch, there are overlaps. The Overseas is not one of them, with this watch having a rather interesting history that I do not have space to get into. Suffice it so say though that the Overseas is a sports watch, its history begins in the 1990s, and continued to evolve up to the early Aughts. The last revision to the collection happened in 2016, which was relatively minor. Even Vacheron Constantin does not make the case that the Overseas was meant to be the successor to the 222 in 1979, which was the brand’s proper contribution to the design language pioneered by Genta (though he did not design the 222 or the Overseas, just to be clear). It will not surprise you that this was when I discovered the Overseas because I was learning and writing about watches around about this time (especially the 2000s), when I first discovered the magic of mechanical watches in the 1990s. The watch today is quite different than it was at the start but it still says something about the era of its birth.

For the longest time, prior to the launch of the Fiftysix collection, the Overseas family served as the gateway to Vacheron Constantin. I feel positive about the change, although it did not influence my decision as far as reference 4520V/210A-B128 goes. Vacheron Constantin just wised up to the fact that a legend of fine watchmaking cannot use a design-forward luxury sports watch as an introduction to the brand. Now, this does open up pricing options for the brand, which admittedly might be very bad for me and for anyone hoping for a bargain here – the Overseas can be had for $16,500, although that is for the quartz model. Prices have been trending upwards with this collection for years, although resale prospects here were never in outlandish territory.

Something to note about this model here is that it is a boutique exclusive, at least in Singapore. That means buying it is a matter of when you expressed interest in it. Now, I have been on this list for a number of years now and I have not tired of waiting yet. This is one of the upsides to waiting for more than a minute (to put it mildly) to commit to a watch because neither the brand nor market conditions are responsible. Just me and my wallet. I will close with a brief note on why I decided to finally buy the watch. In a word, it was fear, just as it was with the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Milgauss in 2021.

Inflationary pressures aside, all brands continue to aggressively push their prices skywards and, as mentioned, the introduction of the Fiftysix signals as much to me. The Overseas is, in my view, no competitor to the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak or the Patek Philippe Nautilus, even if it plays in their arena. Like those watches, it tested the boundaries of watch design (by channelling the brand’s Maltese cross logo) to the breaking point. It may have passed that post and then waited for the market to catch up to it, which is a decision I continue to salute Vacheron Constantin for. Happily, the Overseas has not only finally found the audience it deserves but it also no longer needs to languish in the shadow of giants, thanks to Vacheron Constantin introducing the Historiques 222.

This article first appeared on WOW’s Legacy 2024 issue.

For more on the latest in watch reads, click here.