TAG Heuer's "Extreme" Ways

TAG Heuer Carrera Chrono

Just when you thought TAG Heuer could not tempt you with another chronograph option, the brand drops what might be the best counterpoint to the classic Carrera “Glassbox” model: the Carrera Extreme Sport. While more recent enthusiasts might think of certain Monaco models when considering the Extreme Sport, more seasoned hands will recall this treasured “open dial” style look from 2016. While this specific aesthetic has never really exited the TAG Heuer assortment, it has been running quietly in the Carrera collection. That ends here though because the new Carrera Extreme Sport affirms what TAG Heuer fans have known since the introduction of this original look: it is a keeper.

TAG Heuer Carrera Chrono & Tourbillon Extreme Sport

While the “Glassbox” style will certainly appeal to the collector who yearns for the spirit of Formula 1 of the 1960s, the Extreme Sport looks ready to drive into the future. This was the proposition in 2016 and it is back with six new watches featuring even more aggressive miens. There are four standard chronographs, all powered by the automatic TH20-00 calibre, and two chronograph tourbillons (still with the redoubtable calibre TH20-09 powering the action). Originally, the antecedent models would have been powered by the Heuer 02 movements. With more line evolution than extension, these new models take the place of all existing Extreme Sport models.

TAG Heuer Tourbillon Extreme Sport

The aesthetic sensibility of the Extreme Sport has always been popular with TAG Heuer enthusiasts – the years in which it was the dominant part of the Carrera collection were also the ones where the brand reportedly sold the largest number of watches in the last 10 years, according to reports from Morgan Stanley. Given that the movements are all current, and appear to be unchanged, we will spend no more time on them. Instead, the radical transparency is worth a bit of a linger, if only to note that you may not see the motionworks all that well here. In fact, this look is really worth it if you want to draw attention, above and beyond the enthusiasts who will be able to appreciate the date revealer. This of course does not apply to the chronograph tourbillon TH20-09, which does not have a date function.

Watch collectors who think that ‘more’ is better will be pleased to note that all the watches feature bold combinations of materials. These include Grade 2 titanium, rose gold, ceramic, forged carbon and rubber; bezels in the chronograph tourbillon models are in forged carbon while regular models all use ceramic. All the watches are 44mm and are water-resistant to 100 metres. The aforementioned mix-and-match material playfulness was very much a part of the TAG Heuer story for a time – a feature it shared with fellow LVMH brands Hublot and Zenith.

TAG Heuer Tourbillon Extreme Sport

We have yet to see the watches in the metal, as they say, so we reserve judgment on how all elements fit together. Also important is the legibility aspect, which TAG Heuer has emphasised in recent years and marks the more recent iterations of the Carrera chronograph. This will also require handling the actual watches because we have not even gotten into the various colours used on the dial. This is most obvious in the date ring but extends to the chronograph subdials. Once again, to close for now, the Extreme Sport is very much about ‘more,’ so more scrutiny is called for.

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The Panerai Submersible Elux LAB-ID PAM01800 is a Marvel of Mechanical Innovation

The Panerai Submersible Elux LAB-ID PAM01800 watch

Watches such as the Panerai Submersible Elux LAB-ID PAM01800 get watch enthusiasts all hot and bothered. A technical tour-de-force, the Elux PAM01800 delivers maximum low-light legibility for a mechanical dive watch; it is also a rare timekeeper that lights up without the use of batteries, and is the only one to do so for 30 minutes, on-demand. Looking at the watch, it may boggle your mind to discover that it took four patents (pending), six barrels and eight years of development to make the Elux PAM01800 a reality. So, what exactly are we talking about here? While typical dive watches use luminescent materials to keep things readable in the murky depths, Panerai delivers the possibility of lighting up the dial, hands and bezel markers via a mechanical system that generates electrical power for LEDs.

The Panerai Submersible Elux LAB-ID PAM01800 watch

The enthusiasts amongst you will immediately recognise that other brands have showcased similar one-off creations, notably the always-ambitious Van Cleef & Arpels. Unlike that very creative brand, Panerai always has to work within the constraints of its DNA, according to Panerai Chief Operating Officer Jerome Cavadini (Cavadini, who leads the manufacture at Neuchatel, was speaking with us about the new watch, along with Panerai CEO Jean-Marc Pontroue). Indeed, looking at the Elux PAM01800 will put you in mind of the entire Submersible range and not some gizmo – this is still fine watchmaking after all.

The Panerai Submersible Elux LAB-ID PAM01800 watch

The Elux PAM01800 is the fourth ELAB-ID watch (many of which we have covered over the years) and is perhaps the perfect expression of innovation for a brand such as Panerai. Watch brands are a bit idiosyncratic when it comes to such matters, with Panerai taking pains to remind the press that it has a recognised history in the area of luminescence. According to the press materials, with supplemental information from Cavadini and Pontroue, G. Panerai & Figlio actually built something like a lighting system for the Italian military in the 1960s. The family firm from which Officine Panerai emerged patented an Elux system in 1966; however, the original design had nothing to do with timepieces, and Elux as it is presented in PAM01800 is entirely original. So, is the watch any good?

The Panerai Submersible Elux LAB-ID PAM01800 watch

Well, getting into the nuts, bolts, and copper wire of the Elux is complicated, which is only to be expected. Starting with the easy bits then, there are six barrels in calibre P.9010/EL, two of which are responsible for powering the watch. The remaining four barrels provide the 30-minute runtime for the Power Light Function (as Panerai puts it). If this were all there was to the new Elux PAM01800, it would already be impressive because it is the longest-lasting mechanically powered light system in the world (in a timepiece), which Cavadini confirmed for us. The power is generated by customised coils, magnets and a stator and the system includes no circuit boards. Consider, for a moment, that the Elux PAM01800 is a true dive watch, with an unidirectional rotating bezel and 500m of water resistance. Such a watch demands the absolute peak in robustness and thus the Elux component cannot compromise anything.

The Panerai Submersible Elux LAB-ID PAM01800 watch

The casual observer will rightly identify the bezel, pusher (labelled ELUX at 8 o’clock), and crown as weak points here. You might also wonder how the bezel (and by extension the hands) light up at all, given that these are all mobile elements – they could not be connected to the movement with wires, for example. The simple answer, which allows the watch to be water-resistant too, is electromagnetism; more specially, electromagnetic switches. Panerai mentioned this in its presentation during Watches and Wonders Geneva (WWG) and Cavadini confirmed it for us again. An innovation like this one is important and we should take the opportunity to get to know it as well as we can. It is our hope that it will be such a grand success that Panerai works on making the Elux technology a bit more accessible.

The Panerai Submersible Elux LAB-ID PAM01800 watch

Now, as some of you will know, Panerai has been making the rounds (since last year) presenting the watch to collectors. From what we understand (from our chat with Panerai team as well as collectors), the response has been good. Panerai is offering the Elux PAM01800 as a limited edition of 150 pieces, with 50 pieces to be made every year. At SGD 142,700, the watch is priced in grand complication or super complication territory. Non-traditional though it may be, Elux is a proper Panerai spin on a complication. As some observers (Fratello, amongst others) put it, all that remains to be seen is if the watch can turn the Paneristi on. 

The Panerai Submersible Elux LAB-ID PAM01800 watch

Other details to take note of with the Elux PAM01800 are its dimensions, which at 49mm in diameter and approximately 22mm thick are not inconsiderable. Again, this is grand complication territory so daily beater this is not, whatever the watch’s tool watch characteristics. Alleviating the size issue somewhat is the Ti-Ceramitech material, which makes it 44 percent lighter than steel. Besides the Elux-powered light function, Panerai also includes at least two types of SuperLuminova for the bezel, markers and hands. This will ensure that the watch maintains legibility even if the 30-minute power reserve of the light function runs down completely.

For more on the latest in watch reads, click here.

Breguet's Gem-Set Marine Chronograph 5529 Surpasses New Depths

Without a platform to showcase most of the releases for the year, Breguet (and all Swatch Group brands) can be counted on to drop a surprise (or a few) on the world. Such was the case when releases on two new references in the Marine collection landed in our inboxes in May. These are the Marine Chronograph 5529 and Marine 9518, a time-only petite model. We had already planned to showcase the Type XX models with all-new bracelets but the Marine releases fit better with the overall luxed-up world of fine watchmaking. So once again then, we enter the world of the sports elegance elevated timepiece. The elevation here comes in the form of diamonds, which in the case of the chronograph model is of the baguette variety. Thus this story zooms in on reference 5529, even though the time-only watch probably has a clearer audience in mind.

Read More: Secret Signatures of the Breguet Classique 7637

Our rationale for considering the reference 5529 is that the size of more than 42mm here, coupled with the distinctive Marine lugs, makes the chronograph wear a bit large. Also, it is a chronograph and this complication is not available in the Reine de Naples range (more on this in a bit) while every Breguet family of watches has a time-only proposition. In fact, the chronograph is only present in the Type XX and Marine collections, and this version is powered by the self-winding calibre 582 QA. For some collectors, this calibre alone earns the Breguet Marine family a lot of credibility. Of course, reference 5529 does not lean very hard into this, which is more than appropriate for a watch at this price point (see below).

Read More: Here’s Why Breguet is the “Bold Type”

That price is a result of the gold (white or red) case, gold dial and the 98 baguette- cut diamonds (90 on the bezel and eight on the dial). As we noted in the Spring issue, and indeed many times over the last 10 years, the baguette-cut signifies something special to those in the know. Breguet CEO Lionel a Marca is certainly in the know, and we predict that reference 5529 will be a significant entry into the sports elegance elevated watch trend. On the commercial side, ladies who want a Breguet chronograph will have to look to the Marine collection, rather than to the brand’s top-selling range. That seems quite promising to us, given that the Marine collection is often overshadowed by more famous ranges.

Read More: Breguet’s “Starlit Night” is a Feminine Spin to the Brand’s Tourbillon Watches

None of this should be taken to mean that reference 9518 is an afterthought. At 33.8mm and cased in steel, the watch signals that Breguet wants to build an audience for the Marine collection. Note that the price of the watch is effectively “on application,” which means you will have to assess it for yourself.

Read More: Breguet Type XX Makes A Strong Comeback

Movement: Automatic calibre 582 QA with chronograph and date; 48-hour power reserve
Case: 42.3mm in white gold or red gold (bezel and dial set with diamonds); water-resistant
Strap: Rubber or leather
Price: USD 186,400

This article first appeared on WOW’s Summer 2024 issue.

For more on the latest in watch reads, click here.

Cartier’s Santos de Cartier Dual Time: The First Multi-Time Zone Marvel

Cartier's Santos de Cartier Dual Time
Cartier's Santos de Cartier Dual Time

Typically, the coverage instinct for specialty magazines like this one is to go premium when in doubt, or when faced with too many novelties. When it comes to Cartier, that means watches from the Prive collection, usually; the brand has so many new additions every year that we might reasonably miss notable ones, like the Rewind. This year, we think the Santos de Cartier Dual Time should get its due first, though not because we could ever gloss over it; the simple reasoning here is that the Santos watch is often cited as the first aviator’s watch (literally true) but it has not had anything approaching a GMT function in its storied history. Until now.

Cartier's Santos de Cartier Dual Time
Cartier's Santos de Cartier Dual Time

The pictures, here and wherever you get your watch news, only tell part of the story and you can let your own eyes decide on that part. It wears well, at 40.2mm, and one does have to remember that this Santos Dual Time is quite hefty by Cartier standards. This makes one wonder why this is not a Santos-Dumont watch instead, which would also be appropriate since Louis Cartier made that 1904 watch for his aviator friend Alberto Santos-Dumont.

Cartier's Santos de Cartier Dual Time
Cartier's Santos de Cartier Dual Time

Now, no Santos de Cartier watch, including the Santos-Dumont, are the exact models that debuted in 1904 so the brand has room to play here. We think that aviation link does not need to be so explicit in the Santos Dual Time and the sizing issue is key. The watch, in its current shape, is the right size and does not need to be beefier. For the record, since we do not list the full size below, the watch is 10.1mm thick and is 47.5mm lug-to-lug. All of this contributes to the ease-of-wear that so impressed us.

Movement: Undisclosed with second time zone; power reserve unlisted
Case: 40.2mm in steel; water-resistant to 100m
Strap: Steel bracelet
Price: USD 9,000

This story was first seen on WOW’s Summer 2024 Issue.

For more on the latest in luxury watch news and releases, click here.

Chanel Dazzles with the J12 Calibre 12.1

Chanel J12 Calibre 12.1 watch
Chanel J12 Calibre 12.1 watch

When it comes to Chanel’s watchmaking high notes, we often find ourselves in a quandary. There is always a brilliant capsule collection, which we covered last year, but it disappears almost as soon as it appears. This year, for example, the theme is Couture O’Clock (because of course), and it is excellent. The standard bearer here was a magnificent Musical Clock Couture Workshop, which is a unique piece and was sold before Watches and Wonders Geneva; the owner allowed Chanel to continue to display it during the show but consequently, operating it and such was all but impossible. Not that it would matter to most of us in the press since the clock is not in the public eye anymore. Therein lies the difficulty for us – bringing you news that you might be able to act on.

Chanel J12 Calibre 12.1 watch
Chanel J12 Calibre 12.1 watch

With that in mind, we decided to zoom in on the one watch from WWG that is more in-line with our Summer vibes (sporty watches basically) and reflective of the precious metal narrative thread running through this issue. As luck would have it, Chanel happens to have something in the form of the J12 Calibre 12.1 watch, now with a yellow gold bezel set with diamonds. It was introduced last year, without the flash, but we did not get to it then; happily we can resolve that omission now. One thing to note here is that the proper name for this model, in its 38mm guise, is J12 Calibre 12.1. The 33mm models are known simply as the J12.

Chanel J12 Calibre 12.1 watch
Chanel J12 Calibre 12.1 watch

The J12 Calibre 12.1 tells you (almost) everything you need to know about it just by its name. The watch features the COSC-certified manufacture automatic Calibre 12.1, which was developed and built by Kenissi, a joint venture with Tudor. The watch is part of the J12 collection, which makes it the sports elegance offering from Chanel (note that the water-resistance here is 50m because the crown is not of the screw-down sort, which is an aesthetic decision). The watch is perhaps more famous for its 200m water-resistance, which it gets (partially) from a screw-down crown, but for the fancier versions (as we have this year) things are a little more delicate.

Chanel J12 Calibre 12.1 watch
Chanel J12 Calibre 12.1 watch

Last year, Chanel introduced a simple gold bezel and you might also recall a version with baguette diamonds. This year, Chanel has gone with yellow gold bezels with brilliant-cut diamonds in both white and black ceramic cases. If you are familiar with some of the gem-set options in the J12 range, the hour markers are in same sort of diamonds as the bezel (round brilliant-cut). There are 12 of these, for a total of 0.09 carats, and 50 on the bezel (1.51 carats).

Movement: Automatic calibre J12.1; 70-hour power reserve (approximately)
Case: 38mm in ceramic with gem-set gold bezel; 50m
Strap: Bracelet
Price: NA

This story was first seen on WOW’s Summer 2024 Issue.

For more on the latest in luxury watch news and releases, click here.

The Explosive Power Behind The Hublot Big Bang Integrated Time Only 38mm

The Hublot Big Bang Integrated Time Only 38mm

Hublot is among the watchmaking brands that one would never associate with quietude and is still part of the vanguard in the formerly all-powerful big watch trend. Size is relative though, as even the brand reminds everyone this year that 38mm was its own standard in the 1980s. For 2024 then, Hublot deploys the Big Bang Integrated Time Only 38mm, which might benefit from having a catchy moniker like the Supernova. The watch is, as advertised, a time-only proposition with three hands and the date, via a window at 3 o’clock. A quick scan of the Hublot website will show models with diamonds that are also 38mm but this one keeps things pure.

The Hublot Big Bang Integrated Time Only 38mm

Now Hublot recognises that going ‘classical’ like this is sure to raise eyebrows, and perhaps ire too. Nevertheless, everything that defines the Big Bang is here, just smaller. This includes – but is not limited to – the distinctive ‘ears,’ a bezel adorned with six H-shaped functional screws, large skeleton hour and minute hands, and even-numbered indices from 2 to 12 on the dial; for those who care, rubber remains in the picture, on the crown as well as in the form of a composite insert between the bezel and the case (it feels perfectly solid). As far as we can tell, one needs all these ingredients for a successful Big Bang. See for yourself how they look but remember that you will need to see for yourself how these elements come together in the dialled-down case. As noted in the introductory paragraph, we think a 38mm Big Bang is just fine, name aside.

The Hublot Big Bang Integrated Time Only 38mm

Going by Hublot’s own words and its chosen visuals for the Big Bang 38, the goal is to be more unisex than anything else, which is a thread that runs across all LVMH watchmaking brands. To be fair, the broader watchmaking trade is also working hard to find the right unisex product styling and messaging. In terms of functionality, watches are already unisex of course. The six new Big Bang 38 models feature integrated cases and bracelets, crafted from the same materials. Options include brushed titanium versions with black or blue dials, as well as King Gold versions (our jam this issue). Interestingly, the dial is made of soft ferromagnetic steel, thus ensuring optimal protection against magnetic fields; this is unusual in watchmaking, with most dials being brass.

Finally, on the HUB1115 movement used here, Hublot calls it a first for the collection and spends some time extolling its improved technical and aesthetic features, including the extended 48-hour power reserve. That power reserve should clue you in on the origins of the calibre, which the Internet thinks is a Sellita. No doubt there will be some disappointment that Unico calibres are not in play here.

Movement: Automatic HUB1115 with date; 48-hour power reserve
Case: 38mm in King Gold or five other materials; water-resistant to 100m
Strap: Integrated bracelet
Price: SGD 66,200

This story was first seen on WOW’s Summer 2024 Issue.

For more on the latest in luxury watch news and releases, click here.

The Latest News From World of Watches

Fistfull of Cash

Postponed from last year, the 10th Only Watch charity auction finally happened this May and managed to raise CHF28.3 million. Crucially, it also managed to come in under the radar slightly, since this auction was part of a series by Christie’s that was plagued by technical difficulties. Difficulties is putting it mildly because it actually attracted proper news coverage. For example, the Only Watch auction was conducted without Internet buyers as online bidding was suspended, as was the Michael Schumacher auction. Christie’s informed prospective buyers on the digital front that they had to place their bids by phone rather than online. Despite this kerfuffle (not to do with itself, conspiracy theories notwithstanding), Only Watch still managed to raise funds to benefit research into Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy. As it happens, the lion’s share of the CHF28 million was delivered by just one Patek Philippe, the unique Ref. 6301A-010. Nevertheless, all 47 brands that participated in the 10th Only Watch auction did mark their confidence in charity organisation and its work just by participating. To the watch industry, that too is worth a lot, perhaps even more than the top Patek Philippe lot. That watch hammered for CHF15.7 million, making it the star of the show, as Patek Philippe all too often is at auction. To wit, if you are a Patek Philippe watch, you only need to turn up to win best-in-show.

This is not always a win in Patek Philippe’s books though, as evidenced by Sylvester Stallone’s sale of his Grandmaster Chime Ref. 6300 for USD 5.4 million, a record for the auction house Sotheby’s. Various sources, including WatchPro, reported that the legendary Geneva watchmaker is none too pleased by the state of affairs here. In fact, WatchPro asked Patek Philippe CEO Thierry Stern what he thought about the sale, and he said this: “Of course we do not like it, but it can happen. I cannot control everybody. It is not fair for a client that may have been waiting for this piece for many years and then sees it being sold”. Of course, Stallone was not selling his watch for charity or anything like that, which may have changed things. It certainly did not help that the Rocky star and high-profile collector kept the watch in its packaging, indicating that it had never been worn.

Who's The "Bos"?

Nicolas Bos, CEO of Van Cleef & Arpels

Richemont, the group that owns Cartier, Montblanc and IWC (among others), announced a management shift after Watches and Wonders Geneva, alongside its year-end financials. Nicolas Bos, CEO of Van Cleef & Arpels, has been tapped to succeed Jerome Lambert as Richemont CEO; this is not exactly the same role that Lambert had. Richemont is re-establishing the CEO role properly, after many of its functions were subsumed by Richemont Chairman Johann Rupert. The appointment appears in-line with Richemont’s impressive results for the year that passed. These results were achieved o the back of continuing growth in the jewellery segment, which also includes the Bos- helmed Buccellati. It only makes sense that the reinvigorated CEO role should go to someone from a jewellery Maison, and Cyrille de Vigneron (Cartier CEO) is approaching mandatory retirement age. Vigneron reports directly to Rupert. As for Lambert, he remains with Richemont, and on its board, as COO.

New Top Dog

Michel Nydegger

Independent Swiss watchmaker Greubel Forsey announced earlier this year, shortly after Watches and Wonders Geneva, that CEO Antonio Calce would be stepping down. Replacing him is Michel Nydegger, who was the Head of Marketing and Communications and has been with the manufacture since 2016. Calce remains onboard though, serving as Vice President. These changes appear to take effect in August, though is not especially clear. What is clear though is that Greubel Forsey remains independent and that Calce retaining his shares. Founders Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey also retain their shares so it is status quo on the equity front. There is plenty of speculation about a potential suitor for Greubel Forsey and thus the press release from the firm does take pains to reinforce the brand’s ongoing independence. Greubel Forsey did have Richemont as an equity holder, to the tune of 20%, until 2022, when it bought these back. Expect more news on this front.

Extra Time

As the world awaits its season of sporting excess, the international watch community (or watch fam as some prefer) will have its own spectacle to take in - different brand approaches to paying tribute to sporting excellence. For this story, Hublot takes pride of place as the UEFA kicks off (or will be ongoing as you read this) with its latest connected watch (the LVMH-preferred term for smartwatch), the Big Bang e Gen3 UEFA Euro 2024. Since it first took to the Euro pitch in 2008 with the UEFA, Hublot smartwatches have been luxury watchmaking’s sole standard bearer in what might be the world’s most egalitarian team sport. This is why Hublot is unique in embracing both a mainstream sport and the smartwatch; the special editions worn by match referees might be amongst the most collectible such watches in the world. The Gen3 watch, limited to 100 pieces, is powered by the Qualcomm® Snapdragon Wear 4100+ and is in a 44mm titanium case; the Gen3 was revealed to the world in 2022 during the FIFA World Cup of course.

Hublot ambassador Kylian Mbappé

The watch and Hublot ambassador Kylian Mbappé got to work before the UEFA competition got underway with a campaign called “Every second counts.” Even if Mbappé’s France do not win the day – and there is every chance they will – it is a win for Hublot anytime any announcement needs to be made.

IAMWATCH Debuts

An entire generation of collector remembers when retailer The Hour Glass organised “Tempus – The Great Watchscapade” 20 years ago, and following generations have only heard tell of it. This year, The Hour Glass is bringing the magic back with “IAMWATCH,” which it touts as a “new community engagement platform.” This four- day event runs 18-20 October for the public at the Singapore Edition Hotel (with 17 October being an invite-only day).

Thus far, the activities during the event, which is not billed as a “watch fair,” are tenuous but impressive given that participating brands include many powerhouse independents such as Kari Voutilainen, Felix Baumgartner and Max Busser. On the corporate powerhouse side, Jean Arnault and Patrick Pruniaux will also be present. There are more than 40 of these big names, which should be enough to get you to register your interest; IAMWATCH is a ticketed event and The Hour Glass encourages all guests to pre-register.

The Return of Singapore Watch Fair

In its second run at Resorts World Sentosa, the Singapore Watch Fair (SWF) has announced its dates for 2024, running from 2-6 October. WOW is once again a media partner for this event, where we had a booth, to introduce ourselves to the watchmakers who came to town. Last year, these included Ludovic Ballouard, Sartory Billard, Peterman Bedat and local favourite Vincent Calabrese, who has been coming to our shores for many years. This illustrates the fact that even though this is officially the third instalment of the Singapore Watch Fair, it has been part of watch culture here for some time, originally as part of the popular JeweLuxe show. While the lineup this year has not been confirmed at press time (May), we are assured that big and important things are afoot (see our interview with SWF Director and Co-Founder Nelson Lee). The panel discussions and plenary sessions, always a major draw, will be in place along with more immersive experiences. Interestingly, this will be only the first public watchmaking showcase this year, although it is not ticketed and anyone can attend (although registration is mandatory for security reasons). For more information, check out singaporewatchfair.com.

This article is slated to appear in WOW’s Summer 24 Issue, out soon.

For more on the latest in watch reads, click here.

Could LVMH's CEO Reshuffle Be The Key to Higher Long-Term Revenues?

LVMH CEOs Gather for LVMH Watch Week 2023

By now you will have heard of some sweeping changes at Hublot, with Ricardo Guadalupe vacating the CEO role to become Honorary President; Julien Tornare, CEO of TAG Heuer, takes over as Hublot CEO. Antoine Pin, General Manager of Bvlgari Horlogerie, steps into the CEO role at TAG Heuer; no announcement has been made on Pin’s soon-to-be-open Bvlgari seat. All appointments take effect from September 1 this year. It seems only yesterday that we reported on changes at the LVMH Watchmaking Division, with Tornare moving to TAG Heuer, Benoit de Clerck taking his place at Zenith and Frederique Arnault ascending to the lead position in the aforementioned division. Well, that is all old news now and in a rather abrupt fashion; the press release had at least one unforced grammatical error.

Read More: LVMH’s L’Epée Acquisition Hints at Broader Strategy in Luxury Horology

Most news reports, from specialists such as WatchPro and WatchesbySJX are tying this to the recent spate of bad news about performance woes in the luxury watch market. This was hardly unexpected though, with continued weakness in the Greater China market; taken together, China and Hong Kong are the top markets for watchmaking groups such as LVMH, Richemont and Swatch Group. On the other hand, looking only at LVMH, business has reportedly not returned to 2019 levels yet, except at Zenith, Bvlgari and Hublot (according to Morgan/Stanley estimates; LVMH does not breakout figures for watchmaking per brand).

Read More: Benoit de Clerck, Zenith’s New CEO is Raring To Go

Given this potential reality, perhaps Guadalupe is indeed taking a break from the demands of being CEO. He has held this position for 12 years, along with another eight years as Managing Director of Hublot. Backroom talk suggests that Guadalupe and his team worked pretty hard to lift Hublot, which had seen impressive growth since the pandemic. It may very well be that Arnault and Guadalupe (and LVMH Watch and Jewellery boss Stephane Bianchi) decided that fresh ideas are needed. While Tornare can probably do just that for Hublot, the biggest challenge remains TAG Heuer, which is now Pin’s job.

"Hublot is one of the few watchmaking manufacturers that emerged and achieved such success in the 21st century by breaking design codes, communication barriers, and exploring new frontiers in watchmaking. I would like to sincerely thank Ricardo and his teams for their fantastic work building the brand over these past 20 years. Indeed, for 8 years as Managing Director followed by 12 years as CEO, Ricardo truly embodied Hublot and its development, particularly through his product vision, deep industry knowledge, and relationships with all business and industrial partners. I know that Ricardo will now continue to ensure respect for the values that have led to the Maison’s success," comments Frédéric Arnault.

Read More: The Man Behind Zenith’s Star Power

“I am delighted about Julien's arrival at the head of Hublot, which marks the beginning of a new chapter dedicated to the future of our Maison and the strengthening of its unique position among leading watch brands. I am also delighted to welcome Antoine into our Watches Division at TAG Heuer. His extensive international experience, expertise, and well-recognized passion for watches will be major assets in continuing TAG Heuer’s growth and elevation,” added Frédéric Arnault.

For more on the latest in luxury watch reads and news, click here.